Australian food and wine newsletter
September 2002 edition
 
Welcome to the September edition of Campion and Curtis, Australian food and wine newsletter. Please feel free to pass this on to all your food and wine-loving friends wherever they may be, and visit us at our website www.campionandcurtis.com
Click here to visit the Campion and Curtis website
 
What’s Cooking?
There’s no doubt Spring is with us; the weather’s warming up and a great range of produce is appearing on market stalls. We’ve been enjoying fantastic blood oranges in recent weeks, both as juice and in fruit salad for breakfast. Another of our favourite breakfasts is bircher muesli; milk & yoghurt soaked oats with fruit and honey, the recipe is at the bottom of this newsletter.
 
We’ve also had our first spring salad with fresh asparagus and artichokes (courtesy of friends who also generously barbecued legs of lamb). Our veggie patch is looking very spring-like too, with lots of lettuces, baby carrots and fresh herbs appearing.
 
As mentioned last month we’re pretty keen on cooking Asian food and we recently had a Sunday Night Asian feast. This included soy-braised chicken, sweet chilli & mirin steamed tofu and wok-fried greens, followed by sticky black rice pudding. Now you can do the same as the recipes have been put onto the Campion and Curtis website recipe page. www.campionandcurtis.com/recipes and click on Sunday Night Asian Feast.
 
In-season
The best seasonal fruits to look out for are lady Williams apples, cumquat, grapefruit, lemon, Ellendale mandarins, blood and Seville oranges, papaya, pawpaw, pineapple and tangelos.
 
The best seasonal vegetables to look out for are artichokes, Asian greens, asparagus, avocados, broad beans, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, leeks, lettuce, and peas.
 
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Eating out - Melbourne
Azzurro is a fresh new face on the wood-fired pizza scene and very nice it is too. We liked the pizza with fresh tomato, onions, mozzarella and prosciutto. The children were more in-tune with the peperoni, minus the hot bits. There’s also a variety of classic Italian and pasta dishes available, but we’re still working our way through the pizzas. Azzurro 776 Hawthorn Road East Brighton 03) 9591 0366.
 
A great Chinese restaurant in Highett? We were as surprised as the next person was. Mei Hung recently moved from bayside Black Rock to this quiet shopping strip and has been packed ever since. We suggest you try the chilli pork, crispy fried pork chop in spicy salt or the paper chicken, oh and the spring rolls are also top class too. Mei Hung 332 Highett Road Highett 03) 9555 7999
 
Eating out – Sydney
Talk about Sydney restaurants often centres around how much everyone charges for a main course, however in our view there are many bargains to be had, if you’re willing to look. XO is a real winner in this area, with small plates in the mid-teens and larger dishes in the mid-twenty dollar marks. This is perfect for us, as the entire table can share the range of flavours and tastes. We loved the fried chilli salt squid, steamed bean curd with fungi & black vinegar sauce and the crisp skin chicken with ginger & shallot. Lots of our favourites on the wine list, and excellent service too. XO 155 Victoria Street, Sydney 02) 9331 8881.
 
We’re big fans of the fixed price menu when we’re travelling with the children. It means we know what we’re up for before we sit down, and our under 10s get to dine in some of the best places in town. Fixed price menu food usually appears pretty quickly from the kitchen, which also suits the juniors. One of the best examples of this we’ve encountered is the bel mondo antibar. For $38.00 each we enjoyed a flight tasting menu of four small courses with matched wines, and we’re talking about some of the best Italian food in the country here. Amazing value for food, wines and service of this quality. bel mondo antibar, level 3, The Argyle Stores 18-24 Argyle Street, The Rocks 02) 9241 3700.
 
Cooking schools
The Queen Victoria Market Cooking School begins its fourth year this month with a huge selection of classes. You can even get to meet us at one of them (well, Allan at least). Secret Men’s BBQ Business is the title of a class and Allan’s new book, if learning the secrets of barbecuing is for you, pencil Saturday 14th September into your diary and get your tongs ready. Bookings on 03) 9320 5822.
 
Simon Johnson’s Talk, Eat, Drink series 2 classes continues with Matthew Moran from Aria presenting The Yum Factor on Sat Sept 14th and Christine Manfield on Sat 21 September with her very timely Salad Days session. For all enquires or bookings call 02) 9552 2522.
 
Talking of SJ’s, a new store is about to open on September 12th at Shop 6, Quadrangle Shopping Village, 100 Edinburgh road, Castlecrag 02) 9967 9411.
 
Luke Mangan’s cooking classes have proved so popular they now feature on the first Sunday of the month up to December. $125.00 gets you a cooking demo and a 3-course lunch with matched wines, recipe notes and a signed menu. Bookings on 02) 9332 2566.
 
Recent bottles
We’re always keen to try European wines when the opportunity arises and we were recently offered a taste of a brilliant wine called Douro Tinto from Portugal. It’s from a winery called Quinta do Vallado which is situated on the Corgo river in the Douro Valley (according to the label). We’re not sure how wide distribution is but we’ve been able to pick up a few bottles from Armadale Cellars recently 03) 9509 3055, around $30. Wine Spectator described the wine in the following way "Bursts with intense flavours of cassis, berry, and red cherry, powered by strong acidity. Finish of game and bittersweet chocolate. Almost Burgundian in its elegance and balance." Couldn't have put it better ourselves.
 
Tatachilla Foundation Shiraz is a wine we buy when the budget allows, and then try to keep the cork in it for a few years. We brought a bottle of the 1995 to friends for dinner recently and were not disappointed. The wine was packed with concentrated fruit and intense flavours, just as the best big McLaren Vale wines should be. It was enjoyed by all.
 
A bottle of Giesen pinot gris from New Zealand went down a treat a few weeks ago too. It’s just the sort of wine to enjoy with Japanese and Chinese dishes, particularly seafood and chicken. It had a long finish with hints of oak, stone fruit and pears along the way.
 
Food and wine news
September is the time of year when our restaurant reviewers reveal who are (in their view) the star performers of the industry. The Melbourne and Sydney guides have just been launched with the following results.
 
The Age Good Food Guide
In a well-mannered ceremony at the new Australian Centre of Contemporary Art in Melbourne there were some much anticipated and well-received awards and only a few surprises. Unlike last year when one award went up in flames and a well known chef stormed out.
 
Those wags from www.spittoon.com.au got in early and provided award winners with a little advice – 1) Act surprised, 2) Run to the podium, 3) Gloat, 4) Thank staff by name and 5) Dispose of award thoughtfully.
Some Age personnel were not amused!
 
Restaurant of the year – Stefano's of Mildura
 
Best new restaurant – Ondine
 
Chef of the year – Teage Ezard
 
Young chefs of the year – Emma Mackay and Daniel Wilson from Blakes cafeteria
 
Special award for professional excellence – Will Studd
 
A special mention must be made of the food on offer; we felt it was the best in years, while others declared decades. Our own special award of the night goes to Damm Fine Food.
 
The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide
In an awards ceremony at the Sydney Theatre Company, Quay restaurant joined the elite three-hat group of Claude's, Rockpool, MG Garage and Tetsuya's as well as winning the coveted Restaurant of the Year award.
 
Matthew Evans – Co-editor SMH Good Food guide – is quoted as saying - "A lot of people will be shocked we've awarded Quay restaurant of the year, but it wins the award because of its energy, the seamless nature of its food and its ambience."
 
Restaurant of the Year - Quay
 
Best New Restaurant - Guillaume at Bennelong (honourable mention to Becasse)
 
Best Country Restaurant Fins, Byron Bay
 
The Sydney Morning Herald Award for Professional Excellence - Tetsuya Wakuda
 
Other news
Andrew Wood of Divine Magazine has joined forces with The Spanish Trade Commission to present a four-day food and wine feast. Events for which bookings are required include The Cult of Tempranillo on Sept 11th and 12th and the Chez Spain dinners on Sept 13th and 14th. The public will also have an opportunity to taste great Spanish foods and products (for free) at the Prahran Market from 10am on Sept 12-14th. There’ll be olives and olive oil, cheese, wine, vinegars, tuna and paella (of course). A great opportunity you should not miss. Bookings on 03) 5422 7500 and further info on www.divinemagazine.com.au
 
Tasting Australia is calling for entries for their Lifestyle Channel Australian Regional Culinary Competition. The competition will be held in October 2003 and is limited to 30 teams. So if your region has a team of chefs who can devise and execute a brilliant 3-course menu for 4 people using local ingredients, this could be perfect for them. Entries at www.tasting-australia.com.au
 
There has been plenty of news about Australian chefs on the move recently. Yanni Kyritsis is making room at MG Garage (a rumoured move to London), allowing Jeremy Strode to head north from Langtons in Melbourne to take up residence at the stoves. Insiders have confirmed an Austrian chef currently working at the Criterion in London will be moving into the Flinders Lane basement restaurant. We’ve also seen Brigitta Hafner move from Florentino in Melbourne to work alongside Stefano de Pieri at the Mildura Grand Hotel.
 
Our rumour mill proved to be correct in regards to the Browns Bakeries, with the business going into voluntary receivership last week. It is hoped a restructure of the business will ensure it’s survival, and that lovers of French bread can continue to enjoy Brown’s delicious baguettes, croissants, lemon tarts and cheese twists.
 
News is trickling out of a new Melbourne dining room planned for the Port Authority Building. There are some interesting food names involved, and those who have seen the space say it is stunning. More will be revealed as it comes to hand.
 
For those who like to explore the latest in after dinner nite spots check out the newly opened F4. The interior of this new venue is architecturally amazing; lots of angled walls, convex roof, steel webbing and glass encased VIP rooms. Level 2, Hub Arcade 318-322 Little Collins St, Melbourne.
 
Publications
Gastronomy Symposiums are held every couple of years around the country and Jane Adams has taken up the challenge of publishing the proceedings from the 1996 Sydney event. They are available from her for $25 inc postage, 02) 9360 9380 or contact Jane at jacom@bigpond.net.au
 
North-East Victoria has just released a great new brochure with listings of the best food, wine and festivals in this well-known foodie region. It covers Beechworth, Rutherglen, Glenrowan and King Valley. A free copy can be obtained by calling 1800 801 065.
 
Eating in
Food-loving duo Maeve O’Meara and Joanna Savill are back on our screens with a third series of their Food Lovers’ Guide to Australia. Now every Friday evening at 8pm we’ve got an excuse to eat in front of the TV as we’re introduced to other foodies across the country. It’s a feast of Australian cooking, eating and fine produce.
Coming up …
 
September 6 – Visit Yamba NSW, home to some of the sweetest, most delicious prawns in Australia and Lajamanu, south of Darwin to learn about Aboriginal community groups combining indigenous ingredients with European fare.
 
September 13 – Looks at the continental delis - the places that first introduced us to salami, fine cheeses and olives, and then find out everything you’ll ever need to know about Haggis.
 
September 20 explores the story behind salt and searches out the first cherries of the season.
 
Find out more at www.foodandwinelovers.com.au
 
New products
Stefano de Pieri recently launched the 2002 Victorian Olive Groves range of oils with a dinner at Dutton Enoteca. We’ve been enjoying the early harvest Frantoio recently as it’s got a very mild hint of white pepper and a lovely fruitiness. It’s become our salad oil of choice. They also produce a Manzanillo and a harvest blend, plus many other related products. Find our more on www.victorianolivegroves.com
 
Culinary questions
We’re always happy to try and answer your culinary questions, simply send us an e-mail to michele@campionandcurtis.com and we’ll endeavour to get back to you ASAP.
 
Food and wine books
The big release season for food and wine books is now underway and the first of these is Bill Grangers Bills Food, which follows on from his successful Sydney Food.
 
Arabesque - Modern Middle Eastern Food -by Greg and Lucy Malouf has just been released by Hardie Grant Books in paperback. Greg Malouf is widely admired as one of Australia's most innovative and influential chefs and his passion for the aromas, flavours and textures of his Lebanese heritage, have led him to forge a unique modern Middle Eastern cuisine. RRP $39.95.
 
Chef David Thompson is widely acknowledged as the man who brought real Thai food to Australia with his Darley Street Thai restaurant and Sailors Thai in Sydney and now to the rest of the world with Nahm restaurant in London. Now he has brought his amazing knowledge into print with his book Thai Food. It is described as 'the most comprehensive account of this ancient and exotic cuisine ever published in English.' If you’ve ever had the good fortune to taste David’s food or to hear first hand his philosophy and approach to food and cooking you can believe it. Photography is by the talented Earl Carter. Thai Food will be released next month. RRP $75.00.
 
Over the coming months expect to see books from Luke Mangan, Kurma Dasa and Nigella Lawson with her new release Forever Summer.
 
The BBQ
As many of you know we’re involved in National BBQ Day. The 2002 event is on track to take place on the last Sunday in November. Get the low down and sign up for your free kit on www.nationalbbqday.com.au,  you’ll also get to see Barbecue Bob in action.
 
As mentioned above Allan has just released his new Secret Men’s BBQ Business book. This is essential reading for all blokey barbecue cooks, or budding barbecuers. To most outsiders the gathering of Australian men around the barbecue looks completely innocent – but all is not as it seems -- it’s where Secret Men’s Barbecue Business is convened. Part manifesto, but mostly an indispensable manual on all things related to the barbecue, Secret Men’s Barbecue Business teaches you all you need to know to join the fold. It covers everything from buying a barbecue to building your own, lighting and cleaning your barbecue and essential barbecue tools and ingredients necessary for success. Learn the barbecue ‘golden rules’ and everything blokes need to get the ‘skill of the grill'.
Culinary competition
We promised a culinary competition to test the minds of our subscribers – so here it is. The prize is signed copies of Campion & Curtis in the Kitchen, Secret Men’s BBQ Business and Fresh The Seasonal Produce Cookbook. This pack of books is valued at $90.00.
 
A few rules before you start – the winner will be the first correct entry we receive via e-mail and we’ll contact them directly to organise postage of the prize.
 
Please ensure your return e-mail details are correct, as we’ve had a few incorrect addresses sent in recently.
 
Responses to this type of competition are usually very quick, so don’t delay.
 
Entries close at 5pm on Friday 6th September 2002.
 
Q1) In what year was the book Stephanie’s Menus for food lovers by Stephanie Alexander first published?
 
Q2) Catarratto, plavai, and torbato are all used to make what?
 
Q3) Name the central character in The Debt to Pleasure by John Lanchester.
 
Q4) Which famous French blue cheese is about to be banned from Australia by Food Standards Australia & New Zealand because it is made with ‘raw" milk?
 
Q5) What is dukkah and how is it made?
 
Q6) Who was the editor of the first Age Good Food Guide in 1980/81?
 
Q7) Name David Thompson’s cookbook published by Simon & Schuster in 1993
 
Send your (7) answers to michele@campionandcurtis.com
 
Coming up in the October issue will be news about a couple of new farmers’ markets, special spring recipes, a look at the Spanish food renaissance in Melbourne and our thoughts on The Green Kitchen.
 
Don't forget if you have any food or wine news you think we’d like to hear about, contact us at michele@campionandcurtis.com
 
Cheers, Allan Campion and Michele Curtis
 
To unsubscribe to this newsletter contact us at michele@campionandcurtis.com
 
Bircher muesli
This is decadent muesli that you soak overnight and serve chilled with fresh fruit the next morning.
Brilliant in warmer weather.
 
150 g rolled oats
60 g sultanas
30 g flaked almonds
250 ml milk
250 ml natural yoghurt
1 apple, grated
150 g berries, cut if necessary
1 banana, sliced
90 ml cream
Honey, optional
 
Mix oats with sultanas, almonds, milk and yoghurt. Refrigerate overnight.
In the morning add grated apple, berries, banana and cream. Add honey to taste and if needed more milk or yoghurt to adjust consistency; it should be moist, but not runny.
Serves 6–8.
 
From Campion and Curtis in the Kitchen. (C) Allan Campion and Michele Curtis
 
Allan Campion & Michele Cutis can be contacted on
michele@campionandcurtis.com and allan@campionandcurtis.com