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For 2010 this page is changing into more of a Foodie Blog put together by Allan rather than a regular newsletter. Why? Simply because it's a great way to get information to like-minded people about the best dishes, food stores and ingredients that Melbourne has to offer. It's also more personal and a great addition to the work published in the annual Foodie's Guide to Melbourne and sent out on Twitter.
The real kicker to start blogging was watching the movie Julia and Julie late in 2009. It brought together so many strands of why I so love food and cooking - why I am so lucky that I found a love of food at such an early age. The movie also reminded me how influential Julia Child's writing had also been to my love of French cook and brought a modern perspective of blogging into the message.
So expect information on things I'm interested in within the world of food and wine - with a strong Melbourne and Regional Victoria focus.
To be informed when new information is posted simply send in your email address. A brief update will be sent each 4-6 weeks. Or simply drop into this webpage every so often. Click here to sign up for Allan's blog updates
Updates from the Melbourne food scene, recipes, restaurants, cook books and food tours.
Looking for up-coming public Foodies' Tours? Full details and costs are available on the Melbourne Foodies' Tour website.
Looking to book a private Foodies Tour? Checkout the options on the Melbourne Foodies' Tour website.
Looking for up-coming public cooking classes? Full details and costs are available on the Melbourne Cooking Classes website.
Looking to book a private Cooking Class? Checkout the options on the Melbourne Cooking Clasess website.
Seasonal produce
1995 seems like a lifetime ago, but it was the first release of the Seasonal Produce Diary. This was an era when shoppers were being offered the same ingredients all year round. As if tomatoes and strawberries force-grown in winter tasted anything like those grown in the heat of summer, or asparagus made to appear in autumn had any of the flavour and crispness it does in spring. I believed then, and am even more adamant today that it is virtually impossible to produce delicious food with out-of-season ingredients.
The diary began as a result of having cooked overseas for a number of years and losing touch with what was in season locally. There was very little information available on what to buy, so monthly lists of seasonal ingredients were compiled over a number of years (with co-author Michele Curtis) by walking through produce markets and noting down what was best each week, ensuring that what made it onto the list were fruit and vegetables at their peak of flavour, ripeness, quality and value. The more I learned about seasonality the more convinced I became that it was one of the keys to great cooking.
Over time, the lists became an edible snapshot of the changing seasons and the best ingredients on offer. Before too long friends and chefs were asking for copies to use themselves. It became apparent that these years of research should be published properly, and it was then that the original idea for The Seasonal Produce Diary was born. It is now published as The Foodie's Diary in September each year.
These days seasonal shopping is considered the norm for many food-lovers who care about what they cook and about what they eat. And it is a trend that is really gaining momentum with the popularity of farmer's markets, the return of backyard vegetable gardens and seasonal information in food magazines and newspaper sections.
Recent seasonal delights at home have included a batch of late season apricots gently poached to enjoy with breakfast muesli, a salad of sun-ripened backyard cherry tomatoes with fresh mozzarela and basil, as well as fresh sliced zucchini pan fried with fresh mint, olive oil, pine nuts and raisins. A chilly Sunday night just this week saw the opportunity for a beef casserole rich with red wine, bacon, carrots and celery. Let's hope this season-led approach to cooking continues to grow - and perhaps even becomes the norm for all of us. Eat well - Allan.
If you are looking for a little seasonal inspiration and advice checkout the seasonal lists available on the Seasonal Produce page.
January-February
January was dotted with a series of trips around Victoria, ACT and NSW. The end of 2009 was spent in Bright and surrounds. Some great hikes on Mt Buffalo were a real highlight as was the local food and wine. Cheese and sourdough bread from Milawa Dairy was right on the money, as was some seriously good pizzas at Bridge Road Brewers in Beechworth. Favourite was beetroot, goat's cheese, red onion and walnuts. The watermelon, orange, mint and fetta salad sounded pretty amazing - and was a real revelation.
A few days in Bateman's Bay and Narooma were a welcome relief from the heat in the rest of SE Australia. And even sneaked in a two day hike at Wilson's Prom National Park.
On the home front there has been considerable time spend trying to keep the vegetables and herbs hydrated - tomatoes have been excellent so far with tigerellas and many amazing cherry tomatoes. Looking forward to getting a couple of extra vegetable beds in during autumn.
Since late January however it's been back to the desk with work starting on the 2011 editions of The Foodie's Diary and The Foodie's Guide to Melbourne - so full speed for the months ahead on both these titles. Kicked off the tours season for the year with full crews on 30th January. Updated all three websites (Melbourne Cooking Classes and Melbourne Food Tours) to make them easier to view and navigate (hopefully).
Also revamped the seasonal information on the Foodies' Diary page, including a new down-loadable seasonal list. There is also a new events page with details of talks, festivals and presentations on offer.
I hope you'll drop by from time to time and keep up to date with what's happening in food and wine.
Regards, Allan
Real pork
Many people (not just avid foodies) are interested to know the source of their ingredients. The popularity of farmers' markets is testament to this with buyers able to meet and interact with producers and growers. Even in supermarkets there is the opportunity to shop for some better produced ingredients. Cage free eggs, organic vegetables and chicken for instance are now available at my local supermarket.The next big leap forward (I hope) is in relation to the production of pork in Australia. A recent Sixty Minutes story on sows kept in cramped stalls was a real step forward in this issue and included footage showing the dreadful conditions some pigs are kept in. Link to Sixty Minutes.
Much of the sow footage for the story was shot by Animals Australia and they also featured strongly in the piece. Their website is a great place to gather information on many aspects of this issue and provides an opportunity to voice your concerns to those who support the current situation.
As someone who gets the opportunity to shop at farmers markets and travel around regional Victoria, shopping for ethically raised pork is not too difficult for me. The bacon from Fernleigh Farm near Daylesford springs to mind (and won a Foodies' Guide award this year). What I'd love to see in 2010 is for this market segment to grow and that all food lovers have the opportunity to purchase amazing quality pork where most of us do our everyday shopping.
Julia's roast chicken
Seeing the movie Julia and Julie sent me back to the books which got me interested in French cooking - Mastering The Art of French Cooking (Vol 1 and 2), which were co-authored by Julia Child.As I read through these simple paperbacks I was taken back to the early 1980's when I first purchased the books and began to read and cook from them.
At that early stage in my cooking career I was heavily influenced by (and loving) the cooking of South East Asia, - Singapore, Hong Kong, Indonesia and Japan in particular. Julia's books changed all that and I was soon trying to master French onion soup, profiteroles, shortcrust pastry and so much more besides.
I came back to these two books a decade or so later as I began to write recipes for The Age Epicure section and Australian Gourmet Traveller magazine. Writing to me was a perfect way to pass on information, ideas, knowledge and hopefully inspire people to cook more often.
Julia Child always seemed to put forward the proper way to cook - I was keen to make it a little simpler perhaps. To cut out some of the tricky bits and leave busy people with recipes that were simple to prepare, yet still created wonderful food. This roast chicken is a great example - Julia recommends trussing (tying) the bird, cooking it on its side for set periods in the oven, lots of salting and lots of basting. Instructions that seem old fashioned today, yet were perfect in her day.
So here is my simpler version of Julia's Roast Chicken
A size 16-18 free-range chickenA little butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 kg potatoes, peeled and cut in half lengthways
2-3 carrots, peeled and cut in half lengthways
1 onion, peeled and cut into thick slices
Preheat oven to 180°C.
Dry the chicken and the rub with butter.
Sprinkle salt and pepper all over, including in the cavity.
Place the chicken into a roasting tray. Surround with the prepared vegetables.
Place chicken upside down in tray and cook in the preheated oven for 45 minutes, until the skin is crisp.
Turn over and cook for a further 30 minutes, until the skin is golden brown and crisp.
Check whether the chicken is cooked by inspecting the juices for any sign of blood (pinkness).
Allow to rest for 10 minutes before carving.
Favourite Food Books
Late in 2009 food writer Richard Cornish asked if I'd recommend my five favourite cook books. Yes, just five. The request was to be part of an article in The Age Epicure section on favourite cookbooks of local food lovers and chefs.Trying to pick just five is not easy - so I choose those I have heavily relied upon in my early years of cooking and food writing - and would happily recommend to others. They are as follows;
A New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden
A well thumbed and utilised paperback packed with excellent recipes and wonderful stories which explain the importance of food in the Middle East.
Mastering the Art of French Cooking Vol 1 and 2 Vol 1 by Siomone Beck, Louisette Bertholle and Julia Child and Vol 2 by Simone Beck and Julia Child
Simple paperbacks which offer the most wonderfully detailed step by step instructions to all manner of French cooking techniques. A must for any food library.
The Complete Asian Cookbook by Charmaine Solomon A wild ride through the best dishes of the Far East.
Bugialli on Pasta by Giuliano Bugialli Classic pasta and pasta sauce making made easy.
The Italian Baker by Carol Field Excellent instructions on everything from pizza and panini to delicious cakes and biscuits.
Choosing just these five books leaves out hundreds more by authors like Marcella Hazan, Stephanie Alexander, David Thomson, Elizabeth David, Elizabeth Luard, Christine Manfield, Neil Perry, Greg Malouf and Frank Camorra. All people I have learned so much from over the years through their writing.
The resulting article by Richard Cornish came up with a top ten (including two of my picks). Checkout the complete article online here.
Movida Melbourne
Melbourne has a new MoVida restaurant - well two new restaurants really. MoVida Terraza is an expansive outdoor terrace overlooking Little Bourke Street, perfect for grazing on delicious Spanish food from early in the morning to late at night. MoVida Aqui is the new restaurant and runs off the rear of the terrace. There is some seriously good food on offer here (as we'd expect from Frank Camorra and his crew). Have been loving the smoked tomato sorbet on crispy toasts with anchovy and capers (still). Scallops with crispy jamon are another excellent tapa. The Andalucian rabbit with vegetables, almonds and raisins is a ripper too - especially with a glass of Artazuri rose. Top service here too - and heaps of seating. A wonderful Spanish fueled Melbourne dining experience - don't miss it!.Both at 500 Bourke Street, Melbourne CBD - easiest to enter from Little Bourke Street, near the William Street corner.
MoVida chef Frank Camorra and food writer Richard Cornish have been busy on a new cookbook too. MoVida Rustica has just landed and is a guaranteed hit. They have travelled through Spain gathering recipes and stories from everyday people and great cooks. As always with these authors it's the mix of stories and recipes which really shine through. Pick up a copy for your Christmas stocking soon! Murdoch Books $59.95.
Real garlic
Last year, after many sad experiences with garlic, an order was placed for a box of Patrice Newell Garlic. What arrived was without a doubt the best garlic ever. It was sweet, juicy, gently and magnificent - and was utilised in cooking all over summer and autumn. Finally it began to sprout - and was duly divided into cloves and planted. The resulting garlic has recently been harvested is pretty dammed fine. Well the latest Patrice Newell garlic crop has been harvested, dried and is ready to be ordered by food lovers across the country. Visit the website for all the details - and don't leave it too late - it was a sellout last year.
Still on the garlic front - the amazing new black garlic (fermented apparently) is imported by the crew at Oliveria. It's been quickly snapped up by
adventurous chefs looking for new tastes, flavours and textures. Well they have all that and more with this food. Check it out at Oliveria, Cnr commercial Road and Cato Street Prahran. 03 9510 0690
Fab food stores in Melbourne
Each year (along with co-author Michele Curtis) I write what is known The Foodies' Guide to Melbourne. In short it's a guide book to the very best places to shop for food in and around Melbourne.Our annual culinary journey brings us in contact with amazing food stores, delis, chocolatiers, bakers and butchers. Every now and then we taste a product that really stands out from the crowd. It could be a chocolate truffle, a slice of bacon, the perfect burger or even roasted coffee beans.
Would the following retailers please step forward to receive their Foodies' Guide Awards for 2010.
Best Chocolate Shop - Monsieur Truffe
Feel like Charlie in the chocolate factory and discover a world of chocolate - just make sure you don't leave without a bag of passionfruit and chocolate truffles. These cubes of amazingly textured couverture combined with passionfruit puree are not to be missed. 90 Smith Street, Collingwood. 9416 3101.
Best Coffee Roaster - Seven Seed
Step inside the doors of Seven Seeds in Carlton to see Melbourne's coffee renaissance in action. Here the best green beans are selected from around the world then roasted to perfection. There's also coffee education as well as an excellent café. Don't be the last person to discover Seven Seeds. 114 Berkley Street, Carlton 9347 8664.
Best Greengrocer - Leaf Leon Mugavin has created an oasis of produce, with all the essential fruit and vegetables, plus much more to fill your kitchen with. The best dairy, grocery and prepared meals, along with Melbourne's best sourdough breads. A winner all round. 111-113 Ormond Road, Elwood 9531 6542.
Best new delicatessen - Carre Street Deli
For a town crazy about its food, the delicatessen scene outside our wonderful markets is sadly lacking. However, stores such as Carre Street give us hope, with properly sliced ham, top-quality farmhouse cheeses, preserved olives and antipasto items. 372 Glen Huntley Road, Elsternwick 9523 8985.
Best new bakery - Dolcetti
Sicilian baking is the overriding theme at Dolcetti, and they really know their stuff. From the stunning almond biscotti to the delicate panna cotta tarts, it's pure delight. The hazelnut and chocolate nougat is a real standout for its incredible texture and flavour. 223 Victoria Street, West Melbourne 9328 1688.
Best burger shop - Andrew's Hamburgers
It's a big call but we're supremely confident in choosing the burger with the lot from Andrew's in Albert Park as the best in town. They seem to have the knack of taking a classic white roll, toasting it to perfection and then filling it with the best grilled beef patty, fresh lettuce, bacon, tomato. Try one and you'll be hooked too. 114 Bridport Street, Albert Park 9690 2126.
Best bacon - Fernleigh Farm
What an experience - this streaky bacon is beautifully made, old fashioned and just magnificent. Grill until crisp for the ultimate bacon sandwich with fresh tomato, rocket and egg mayonnaise. 1070 Trentham Road, Bullarto 5348 5566. Also at inner city Farmer's Markets.
Best bread - Brioche
Brioche's excellent sourdough baguette brings together two very different baking styles. Baker Phillip Chang has perfected the art of creating a full flavoured and moist sourdough baguette with the most amazing crispy crust. 208 Commercial Road, Prahran 9525 1966.
Best ice-cream - Jocks Ice Cream
Jock Main has strong memories of hokey pokey ice-cream growing up as a child in New Zealand. He has taken this famous flavour to a new level with his version of it, combining the lightest vanilla base with handmade chunks of honeycomb. 83 Victoria Avenue, Albert Park 9686 3838.
Best hot cross buns - Irrewarra Sourdough Bakery
For years we have touted Phillippa's and Babka as having the best buns, and they are still excellent. But let's celebrate Irrewarra's contribution too. A full-flavoured bun, made from sourdough and packed with juice fruit. It's a good job there's a long weekend to celebrate Easter as there's serious eating to be done. 10 James Street, Geelong 5221 3909.
Best takeaway meal - Lafayette Fine Food
Take a perfectly cut slab of corned beef, with no gristle or sinew, team it with creamy mashed potatoes and fresh peas. All you have to do is microwave, transfer to a plate if so inclined and add a dollop of Dijon mustard. What a sensation! 355 New Street, Brighton 9596 1867.
Best lemon tart - Plump Harvest Produce
The lemon tart alone is enough to warrant a road trip to Myrtleford! The pastry hits that just-cooked perfection while the filling is zesty and has a texture that belief. 72 Myrtle Street (on Great Alpine Road) Myrtleford 5752 2257.
(C) - Allan Campion & Michele Curtis