Campion and Curtis
Australian Food & Wine Newsletter -September 2003 
 
Welcome to the September 2003 edition of the C&C newsletter. Like most people we're happy to have finished another winter hibernation and looking forward to lots of great food and wine as spring weaves its way across the country. 
 
In-season
Think spring and think green vegies - asparagus, spinach, broad beans, artichokes, avocados and peas are all looming large on the horizon. Fruits to consider over the next few weeks includes honey murcott mandarins, Seville oranges, tangelos and lady William apples. Thanks to the replies for cumquat recipes from the last newsletter. Siu Ling Hui suggested juicing the cumquats (skin & all) and sweetening it with honey as they do in Malaysia. Another thought was to make candied cumquats (like you do with orange peel) and then allow them to dry - then chop it up and make the orange cake in Jane Grigson's Fruit Book.
 
The Age Good Food Guide 2004
The wait is finally over. The Age Good Food Guide winners have been announced for 2004! It was a night of 'doubles', a night when the champagne flowed and cigars were puffed in triumph. It was also an evening when 'hats' were awarded and some taken away as editor Sally Lewis announced the winners on stage at Her Majesty's Theatre. 
 
News included:
There are more one-hat restaurants (54), including 15 new hat winners
Twenty-two new hats were awarded and 22 restaurants lost hats
The list of city restaurants with three hats went from seven to just three- Ezard, Ondine and Flower Drum
Stefano's in Mildura remains the only country restaurant with three hats
Lake House, Daylesford - Country restaurant of the year, plus Alla Wolf-Tasker won The Age Award for Professional Excellence
Reserve restaurant won Best New Restaurant award and their chef George Calombaris went home a happy bloke after winning Young Chef of the Year
Chef of the Year - won jointly by Donovan Cooke and partner Phillippa Sibley-Cooke, plus three chefs hats (city)
Greg Malouf's Mo Mo took home the award for Best Middle Eastern
 
The party continued well into the night at Botanical who won the Restaurant of the Year award, there seemed no end to the magnums of French champagne served up by a very happy Chris Lucas, Erez Gordon and Paul Wilson. Ronnie Di Stasio was in party mode too as he retained his two chefs hats, a 17/20 score and took out the award for Best Italian.
 
The Melbourne dining public have a new and up-to-date guide to what's good, what's new and what's great. Now the question remains will the Sydney Good Food Guide take a similar approach? Will editors Matthew Evans and Lisa Hudson
give with one hand and take with the other as has happened in Melbourne? All will be revealed at the launch on Monday Sept 15th. We'll keep you posted. The only mystery on the night was just exactly who was involved in the punch-up outside the theatre! The Age Good Food Guide - $24.00
 
Asparagus
Asparagus lovers will be out in full force on Saturday 13th September at the Cardinia Ranges Farmers' Market to celebrate the new season. Drop by from 8am onwards for asparagus cooking demos and tastings, plus the other market regulars - free-range eggs, sourdough bread, olive oil, cheeses, cakes, local wine, herbs and poultry. Pakenham Racecourse, Racecourse Road, Pakenham. Melway 317 G8.
 
Chefs News
Christine Manfield is heading back to the kitchen - but if you thinking of making a booking you'd better get a ticket to the UK at the same time. Christine has been lured to London by chef and restaurateur Rowley Leigh to open a new 90-seater restaurant in the West Street Hotel. She plans to introduce Londoner's to 'a unique kaleidoscope of Asian flavours and refined textures that has become her benchmark and signature'. Having enjoyed her amazing food a number of times we've no doubt she do all that and more. Joining her will be key Paramount staff including Jessica Muir as head chef and Margie Harris for 'service magic'.  She'll join her good friend David Thompson in showing the Brits what the best Australian chefs are capable of. The opening is planned for October. 13-15 West Street, London. Bookings on (020) 7010 8600.
 
Food events
Patrizia Simone (1 hat) has been tempted away from her restaurant in Bright, Victoria to present a special dinner at Richmond Hill Cafe & Larder. A four course feast will include produce and wines from her Alpine Valleys region including local pigeon. This dinner will take place on Monday 29th September at 7pm. $120.00 per person, bookings on 9421 2808.
 
Crab at Pearl
Geoff Lindsay at Pearl restaurant in Melbourne (2 hats) has a special crab harvest menu that appears only with a full moon. Why? Well we're glad you asked. Legend has it that crab harvesting in the north of Australia and South East Asia was done according to the phases of the moon. The Mud Crabs (Scylla serrata) who inhabit burrows in the inter-tidal mud of the mangrove regions, have a habit of digging deep into the mud just before the full moon illuminates the sky and makes them easy pray for predators like crocodiles. Before this hiding occurs, the crab eats a lot and becomes heavy with meat. So canny crab gatherers know that the best time to harvest the crabs is on the two to three days before the full moon. So each full moon Geoff celebrates the crab harvest by adding Chilli Mud Crab to the regular menu. It is offered as a full meal for two people, usually with a starter of a crab salad or perhaps a crab broth followed by the main dish of the Chilli Crab, served with an array of accompaniments. Hot towels, bibs, the lot! The up-coming full moons are on September 10th, October 10th and November 9th. Bookings 03) 9421 4599.
 
Good Food Month
Sydney is getting into the swing with a complete month of food and wine events throughout September. There are way too many events to include here, the best way to get the full picture is to visit the website and click on your preferred day for a list of events. http://gfm.smh.com.au/   To give you a taste of the event there's the inaugural Spring Picnic on Sunday September 21t with food producers from around NSW gathering in Centennial Park to sample, sell and showcase their delicious array of goods. A great family friendly foodie day out.
 
Good Food Month, cont..
The 13th Sydney Food & Wine Fair on Saturday 27th is a much-loved event with more than 100 of Sydney's leading restaurants, hotels, caterers, bakeries, wineries, breweries and coffee producers sampling their wares on the day. The Sydney Morning Herald's Temptation Kitchen will play host to some of Sydney's most renowned chef's — Peter Gilmore (Quay), Martin Boetz (Longrain), Serge Dansereau (The Bathers' Pavilion) and Janni Kyritsis — for cooking demonstrations from noon-3pm. Eduardo Gonzalezo will be cooking up a storm with his delicious cod and scallop paella at the Spanish Olive Oil stand. He's provided us a sneak preview of the recipe which we've included at the bottom of the newsletter. Held at Hyde Park Nth. Proceeds from the day support the AIDS Trust of Australia.
 
Cooking with Stephanie
Stephanie Alexander has been persuaded to host a week-long foodie 'experience' at La Combe en Perigord, in April 2004. Stephanie has holidayed in, and written about, the south-west-the gastronomic heart of France on many occasions. This will be a celebration of this region's culinary traditions and ingredients along the lines of what she did with Maggie Beer in Tuscany a few years back. The week will include hands-on cooking classes, visits to markets in Sarlat and Perigueux, regional restaurants and food producers. More details on www.lacombe-perigord.com.
 
Farmers' Markets
As most of you know we love a good Farmers’ Market. There’s nothing like the opportunity to meet the growers and producers on their home turf and buy freshly dug spuds, just-picked peas, asparagus and corn, freshly laid eggs, sourdough loaves and farmhouse cheeses. Our main problem has been trying to remember exactly which day it is they’re on. Well our prayers have now been answered with a website dedicated to the 40 + markets around the country. Have a peek for yourself at www.farmersmarkets.org.au.
 
Rick Stein cooks
Fancy a few bit of time in the sun? A planned visit to Palm Cove by Rick Stein may just be the thing to lure you to FNQ. Fish is always on the menu here, naturally enough and Mr Stein will be putting it to good use with a cooking class and luncheon at Sebel Reef House and Spa on Monday October 6th 2003. Cost for class and lunch with wine is $95.00, airfare not included. Bookings 07) 4055 3633.
 
Stefano Manfredi cooks too
Chef Stefano Manfredi will be at De Bortoli Yarra Valley as part of the Regional Italian Chefs series on Saturday 13th September. He’ll be preparing a degustation dinner with dishes like his salad of hot smoked river trout and asparagus, quail, farro and chestnut soup, orecchiette with rare breed chicken, leeks, mushroom & spinach and roast rabbit loin stuffed with herbs. You get the picture. All dishes are to be matched with De Bortoli wines. Bookings on 03) 5965 2271.
 
Cheese news
Will Studd has been involved in a long-running battle to be allowed to import cheese made from raw milk. The 7.30 report waded into the fray last week with interviews with Will Studd, Dr Marion Healey (Food Standards ANZ), chef Jacques Reymond (2 hats) and David Brown from the Australian Specialist Cheesemakers Association. If you didn't catch the program the transcript is available from the ABC website. It makes fascinating reading for anyone interested in the rights of Australians to have a choice to enjoy the same cheeses as they do in other countries. You'll find it at http://www.abc.net.au/7.30/content/2003/s933516.htm
 
National BBQ Day 2003
Yes its that time again. When the barbie gets wheeled out of the shed and polished ready for another year of sizzling barbies. As some of you will be aware we were involved in getting National BBQ Day started in 2000. Its still going strong and this year is supporting Variety, The Children's Charity. The event is launched on Sunday 7th September and offers a fundraising kit to all participants. This contains lots of goodies to get your barbecues off to a good start for the season. For further info or to register for a NBD kit visit the website. www.nationalbbqday.com.au
 
Achilles
Anyone who got the opportunity to see actress Emma Poole in her one woman Elizabeth David show at the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival earlier this year may well be interested in her next production. Rather than food the focus here is the legend of Achilles - a man who chooses a short life of glory over a long life of anonymity and who does it all for the men and women he loves. You can catch the show as part of the Melbourne Fringe Festival at the North Melbourne Town Hall, Errol Street, North Melbourne on Saturday October 4 to Saturday October 11, 2003. Bookings on 03) 8412 8777.
 
Convivial Times
Convivial Times are bringing Mark Best of Sydney restaurant Marque to Howqua Dale Gourmet Retreat on September 26-28th. This weekend Masterclass will allow guests to learn more about Marks multi award winning French food in this beautiful rural setting. Bookings on 02) 9380 8327.  

Talk + Eat + Drink
The September line-up at the Simon Johnson Pyrmont store is chefs as far as the eye can see. Alastair Smith from Light Brigade (9th), Peter Kuruvita from Flying Fish has a seafood class (16th), Phil Waddington is right up our alley with duck and pinot on the 23rd while Will Meyrick from Jimmy Liks presents modern Thai street food (27th). Advance bookings are also available for what are sure to be sell out classes with David Thompson on October 18th and 21st. Bookings on 02) 9552 2522.
 
The Essential Ingredient
Lots happening here through the month, notably food author Julie Le Clerc presenting 'New & groovy brunches and breakfasts' (6th) followed by 'Modern food for busy people' (8th). Karen White (1 hat) from Verge  restaurant will be presenting some of her signature dishes at a class on Monday 15th September. Bookings on 03) 9827 9047.
 
Get Fresh
The recently opened Fresh Life precinct at Victoria Gardens Shopping Centre is getting into spring this weekend with the Spring at Fresh Life activities. Guy Grossi (2 hats) will be in action Thursday at 1pm, followed by James Reeson at 2pm. We will be in barbecue action at 12.30 on Friday closely followed by Robert Monteau at 1.30pm. Saturdays line-up kicks off with Gabriel Gate at 11am and concludes with Ken James at 1.30. There will be wine tastings, breadmaking demonstrations, olive oil sampling's, mushroom displays, organic foods and oyster shucking on display throughout the three days. Fresh Life precinct of Victoria Gardens Shopping Centre, Corner Victoria and Burnley Streets Richmond. See you there.  
 
Queen Victoria Market Cooking School
Raymond Fenech from Pomodoro Quadrato (6th  September) will be exploring regional Roman dishes with a slant towards spring and eating al fresco. Geraldine Dawes plans a easy approach to Thai on the 9th, while Kurt Sampson from Harveys (1 hat) will be presenting his thoroughly modern slant on traditional Middle Eastern dishes on September 13th. Children's and teens classes are also planned for the school holidays. Bookings on 03) 9320 5835.
 
StreetSmart
StreetSmart has operating in the UK for some time now and its aim is to raise funds for homeless charities. At participating restaurants diners are asked if they would like to add £1 to the bill. At the end of the month the restaurant passes on the total money raised to StreetSmart, who pass it on to reputable charities in that city. StreetSmart's running and operational costs are generously covered by sponsors, so all the money raised goes directly to the people who need it. In 2002 the campaign raised £311,576.00. The concept is about to kick off in Melbourne and there are already sponsors on-board along with a handful of great restaurants. But they need more! If you can assist contact Adam Robinson, 03) 9836 1926. For more background on the UK event visit www.streetsmart.org.uk

Cheers, Allan and Michele
 
To unsubscribe to this newsletter contact us at michele@campionandcurtis.com
 
Cod and scallop paella (Paella de bacalao y vieiras)
Eduardo Gonzalez from the Spanish ... has provided us with a sneak preview of the recipe he will be preparing at the Sydney Food & Wine Fair on Saturday 27th September.
 
1kg fresh spinach, washed and destalked
400g chickpeas (already cooked, from the tin)
500g desalted cod
500g scallops
90g pine nuts
400g tomatoes, chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 teaspoons sweet Spanish paprika
2 dried chilli pepper, chopped
175ml Spanish extra virgin olive oil
1 Kg Calasparra rice or any Spanish short grain/bomba rice or arborio type
2 litres rich vegetable stock
saffron threads
salt to taste
lemon wedges to serve
60cm paella pan
 
Soak the salt cod in water for 3 days, changing the water two or three times a day.
Rinse. Cut into strips, leaving any bones and skin behind.
Infuse saffron threads in 3 tablespoons just boiled water for 15 minutes.
Cook the spinach, in the water left on the leaves after washing, in a covered pan over a medium heat for 4 minutes.
Squeeze out the excess water and chop.
Heat Spanish extra virgin olive oil in a 60cm paella pan or large frying pan.
When very hot add garlic, paprika, dried chilli, tomatoes and cook for 2 minutes.
Add the cod, spinach, pine nuts & chickpeas. Lower the heat and cook for 4 minutes.
Add the rice and continue to cook, while stirring, for 2 more minutes.
Add the stock and saffron. Season with salt and simmer for about 15 minutes.
Once most of the stock is absorbed, place the scallops on top of the rice in two concentric circles, they will be cooked with the steam of the dish.
Remove from the heat, cover with a tea towel and allow to stand for 3 minutes.
Garnish with lemon wedges and serve at once.
 
Serves 10