Allan Campion & Michele Curtis photo by Lisa Cohen

Campion & Curtis Food and Wine Newsletter - March 2005

Welcome to autumn and the March 2005 edition of the Campion and Curtis newsletter. Autumn brings with it an abundance of beautiful produce, an opportunity to escape for a long weekend, there are lots of wonderful food and wine events occurring in the city and country. We also have beautiful autumn weather to enjoy with cool, misty mornings and warm afternoons. It's a wonderful time of year, so get out and enjoy all it has to offer.

Click here to visit the Campion and Curtis website

Autumn produce
We're rolling into the real 'harvest' time of year now when the abundance and diversity of what's available is quite remarkable. We see the last of summer ingredients such as tomatoes, basil, lettuce, berries, mangoes, berries and nectarines still on offer. Many say that tomatoes are at their best now after many months of ripening in the warmer weather. A gift of tomatoes from a friend's garden are without a doubt some of the best home-grown we've tasted in the past few months. Coming in to season over the next few weeks will be an abundance of beautiful grape varieties, figs (wrap them in prosciutto and enjoy with a glass of proescco), a host of pear varieties, plums, rhubarb and passionfruit. A wander through the produce laden stalls at the Queen Victoria Market a few days ago provided pink spotted borlotti beans, leeks, beautiful pumpkins, raspberries, silverbeet, rainbow chard, eggplants and sweetcorn. With beautiful produce like that to choose from how could we not be inspired to cook? Well of course we were and whipped up a wonderful raspberry and gin trifle. The recipe is included at the bottom of this newsletter so you can do the same.

Food news
Food manufacturers in America are reportedly looking to create a new fat substitute for hydrogenated vegetable oil which has been one of the mainstays of food production for many years. Hydrogenating vegetable oil changes what was a liquid fat into a more stable fat which that stay solid at room temperature. Just think of margarine made from vegetable oil and you'll get the picture. This room stable fat has also allowed food manufacturers to mass produce products as varied as donuts, cakes, biscuits and crackers, potato chips. In fact products such as margarines and other foods were promoted as low fat when made in this way. The whole argument that margarine was better for us than butter because it is made with vegetable oil rather than a saturated fat.

So what has changed? Research began to appear as far back as the 1970s that the process of hydrogenating creates what is known as trans fatty acid. The food manufacturing industry has done its best to deny there were any health implication associated with trans fatty acid. On-going research at the Institute of Medicine at the National Academy of Sciences has came to the conclusion in 2002 that "Because there is a positive linear trend between trans fatty acid intake and total and LDL ("bad") cholesterol concentration, and therefore increased risk of cardiovascular heart disease, the Food and Nutrition Board recommend that trans fatty acid consumption be as low as possible while consuming a nutritionally adequate diet. There are no known requirements for trans fatty acids for specific body functions." View here In plain speak trans fatty acid will clog arteries just like saturated fat, and along the way it'll reduce the good cholesterol that can clear arteries. So damming is this evidence that from January 2006 food manufacturers in the US will have to disclose trans fatty acid on labels along with other fats. We always knew butter was better!

Melbourne and Wine Festival 2005
We've been working our way through the Melbourne and Wine Festival brochure and trying to work out just what we can fit in. We're pretty keen on some of the double acts at the BMW Edge, in particular the double act of brothers Andrew & Matt McConnell on March 19th, the Max Brenner & Phillippa Sibley session and also two of our favourite Italian cooks Stefano de Pieri & Patrizia Simone, both of which are on the 20th of March. Bookings are now available on-line at the festival website on www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au/.

Children and good food
If you are interested in encouraging younger members of your family to learn how to cook consider the "Kids Food at ArtPlay" program organised by The Children's Food Education Foundation. An entire weekend of fun cooking classes are on offer including one hosted by chefs and food writers. We'll even be hosting one of the sessions on Saturday 19th March at 2.30pm. We'll be teaching around 20 children in the 9 - 12 year age bracket how to whip up a two course meal complete with chocolate mousse for dessert. Should be fun and delicious all at the same time.

Food forum for the hungry mind
A great sounding event is on this coming weekend at Manning Clark House in Canberra. It'll gather together food writers, chefs, historians and academics as varied as Stephanie Alexander, Gay Bilson, Margaret Fulton, Tim Pak Poy, Barbara Santich, Alan Saunders, Joanna Savill and Tony Tan for a forum titled Food for Thought. Discussions will cover food and art, food and religion, the history of food, feeding the world, the Asian connection, food memories and more. On the Saturday evening Janet Jeffs will re-create the menu from the film Babette's Feast. Bookings for all or some of the sessions can be made through Manning Clark House. (02) 6295 9433.

Long weekend tastes
A long weekend brings provides food and wine lovers with an extra day to get out of town and see what's happening outside the city. The Mornington peninsula have three days of activities organised for the Labour Day long weekend Friday 11th - Monday 14th March. Join more than 20 Mornington Peninsula vignerons on the foreshore at the Flinders Pier and taste exceptional new and current release pinots - pinot noir, pinot gris, and pinot meunier sparkling wine, matched with delicious locally prepared food and music. At La Baracca Trattoria at T'Gallant the chefs have devised a special five-course artisan menu. While Montalto will be hosting a Farmers' Market Lunch. All this plus Tempranillo & Tapas at Manton's Creek, Petanque Picnic and Pinot at Seaforth Vineyard and lots more. All details are on the MPVA website or call them on (03) 5989 2377.

Nagambie Lakes Festivities
Tahbilk Cellar Door The sixth World's Longest Lunch in the Nagambie Lakes Districk is to be held on the manicured lawns of Limerick Lane Stud. Sip on the region's renowned Rhone varietals while you enjoy a three course meal in the great outdoors on Friday 11th March Bookings to Mitchelton Cellar Door on 03 5736 2221. $85.00 pp. The region also has a special cellar door vertical tastings on Saturday 12th at Tahbilk, David Traeger, Mitchelton, Goulburn Terrace and Burramurra. This is followed by the Twilight Tasting on High Street Nagambie from 7pm. Full details on the Nagambie Lakes website.

Traditional Pickers Lunch
De Bortoli Winery in the Yarra Valley have organised a terrific sounding event where participants get to help the winemakers pick, hand sort and crush grapes in a real 'hands-on' vintage experience. After all that hard work, relax in style under a shady tree and feast on a traditional pickers lunch of crusty bread, yummy antipasto, hearty oxtail braised in red wine, followed by more bread, cheese, fruit and accompanied by plenty of excellent wine and tales of past vintages. Numbers are limited so book early for Sat 19th or Sunday 20th March. $80pp De Bortoli Winery and Restaurant, Pinnacle Lane, Dixons Creek VIC 3775. For bookings and enquiries call reservations on 5965 2271 or events@debortoli.com.au

Lunch with the Godfather
Villa Gusto in Buckland, near Bright, Victoria has created a great sounding event for Easter Sunday. They are promising an extravaganza of Italian food, wine and song and even their very own godfather, Don Salvatore Politini, originally from Sicily, and now a respected wine maker from the King Valley. The lunch will include classic dishes such as: Bruschetta, Arancini, Salsicce, Melanzane alla parmigiana, Veal scaloppine, Pasta di casa, Insalata, and Sicilian dolce Cannoli, Torrone di Mandorle and Torte di olio. $49.00 per head, vino at cellar door prices. Bookings on 03 5756 2000.

Yarra Valley: Pinot versus Cabernet
Andrew Wood from Divine magazine is putting together a traveling roadshow to try and nut out which is the best variety from Victoria's Yarra Valley - Pinot or Cabernet? He's invited fifteen producers who release both a cabernet and pinot to be involved in this event where the wines will be presented blind and will include an open discussion on the merits (or failing) of each wine. Bookings are essential as seating is limited. 03) 5433 5317. Cost $40 (including GST). Melbourne - Tuesday 15 March, Canberra - Thursday 17 March, Brisbane - Tuesday 22 March, Sydney - Wednesday 23 March.

Recent bottles
Enjoying a glass of red We've had a good run of wines in recent weeks, including a good chardonnay, not our favourite variety at the best of times. Hardy's Tintara Cellars chardonnay 2002 looks for all purposes like a classic pale gold chardonnay in the glass, aromas are classic also with butterscotch, melon and ripe fruit. However it's in the mouth we really start to love this because is not excessively oakey. Instead it has a long, rich finish that is beautifully in balance. Try a bottle with a leek and gruyere tart. Another winner recently was the Zonte's Footstep Shiraz Viognier 2004. This was inky black in the glass with typical rich shiraz fruit on the nose, but accompanied by the almost floral aromas of the viognier. On the palate the same thing, an amazing blend of these red and white varieties. We loved it with a chicken tagine. White we're on the subject of wine we recently saw the movie Sideways and loved it. While there have been plenty of great food films over the years this could be the first wine film to be a big hit. Catch it if you can.

Slow Food - Yarra Valley
Slow Food Yarra Valley have a wonderful sounding range of Slow food experiences over the next few weeks. A brewing session with Peter (Floral) Florance and the team from Buckley's have invited all beer lovers to join them for a real beer and day using fresh hops (instead of dried or processed). Taste the specially made Yarra Valley Snail Pail Ale on the day and enjoy a BBQ using local rare breed pork. Buckley's Brewery, Factory 1 - 4 Ardill Street, Healesville on Monday 14th Match from 12am - 3pm Members - $30.00 (Non Members - $35.00).
Slow Food Yarra Valley have also many other events including a Tomato Sauce Making day on March 12th or a cheese and pasta morning at Yarra Valley Dairy. Other opportunities include fresh figs, fresh curd & chardonnay on the lawn at Roundstone Winery or an amazing sounding dinner at The Hermitage, which kicks off in the deliciously overgrown Baron Von Muller designed grounds. All these can be found in the brochure.

Slow Food - Central Victoria
Slow Food Central Victoria have a huge range of events on the cards in March including a dinner at the wonderful Cliffy's in Daylesford, a tomato salsa at Lavandula Swiss Italian Farm, the organic feast at the Swiss Mountain Hotel. We were also interested to see a Fernleigh Farms Open Day on Sunday 20th March. They produce really amazing rare breed pork and organic produce. Full details in the attached flyer.

Cooking classes and food tours
Convivial Times Bookings now open for a Marrickville tour on March 5th, Chocolate appreciation on the 8th and a Cabramatta tour on March 12th.
Queen Victoria Market Cooking School Easter chocolate treats with Kirsten Tibballs, salmon four ways with Loretta Sartori and quick one bowl meals with David Braim.
Cooking Co-ordinates, Canberra - Easter seafood with Thomas Moore and an autumn picnic class with Elizabeth Ziakas.
Sydney Seafood School Learn how to create a seafood platter for your Easter weekend and learn about modern Greek cooking with Andy Harris from Australian Gourmet Traveller and Gourmet Traveller Wine.
Simon Johnson Talk+Eat+Drink Peter Gilmour from Quay, Peter Kuruvita from Flying Fish and food writer and restaurant critic Matthew Evans on ducks - looking at the best varieties to cook with and creating a duck curry and a roast duck for the class.
Gourmet Safaris A Turkish tour of Auburn and a Jewish walking tour of Bondi are both coming up soon.

Click here to visit the Campion and Curtis website. and find out about up-coming cooking classes and food tours. If you have a fantastic event coming up let us know via email - wfood@vicnet.net.au

Cheers until next month, Allan and Michele

Raspberry and gin trifle
We love trifle, particularly in when fresh fruit is so magnificent. A huge bowl of trifle will have your friends coming back for seconds. If you don't have any gin in the house, use any other white spirit or dessert wine. This gorgeous recipe is from our new book, Food with Friends, which was launched this week at our publishers home. We emjoyed this dessert to enjoy with our 'models' while photographing the book and it's a stand out dish.

3 x 5 g gelatine leaves
750 ml (3 cups) apple juice
60 ml (1/4 cup) gin
40 g (2 tbsp) caster sugar
4 peaches, sliced
150 g raspberries
6-8 slices panettone
2 egg yolks
55 g (1/4 cup) caster sugar, extra
1 tbsp plain flour
500 ml (2 cups) milk
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
300 ml whipping cream
2 tbsp pistachios, sliced or 2 tbsp flaked almonds

Soak gelatine sheets in cold water for 2-3 minutes or until soft. Remove and squeeze excess water away. Set aside.
Place apple juice and sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil.
Remove from heat, add gelatine leaves and gin and stir until dissolved.
Strain into a large serving bowl. Refrigerate until almost set, at least 4-6 hours.
Only then add peach slices and raspberries. If you add them to early they will sink to the bottom.
Arrange panettone slices on top of jelly

Make custard by beating egg yolks and extra sugar until pale, then stir in flour until smooth.
Bring milk and vanilla to the boil. Whisk milk into egg yolk mixture and return to a clean saucepan over low heat.
Stir constantly as custard comes to the boil and thickens. Remove from the heat. Allow to cool.

Spread custard over panettone and chill until ready to serve.
Whip cream, spread over panettone and sprinkle with nuts.
Feeds 6-8

Recipe from Food with Friends - recipes and menus for easy entertaining
Published by Hardie Grant Books. RRP $39.95.

Find out more here.