Campion and Curtis
Australian
Food &
Wine Newsletter
March 2004
Welcome to the March 2004 edition of the
C&C newsletter. As you'll be well aware its the beginning
of autumn and the traditional period of harvest, so expect a
bumper crop of food news here too. We've been out and about organising our food
tours for the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival, which is less than three
weeks away. In keeping with the autumn theme we've included a couple of our
favourite recipes for this time of year at the end of this newsletter.
Enjoy.
Click here to visit the Campion and Curtis website
In-season
We've had a good chance to wander through a couple of our produce
markets in our home town this past week and there's no doubt that
autumn ingredients are starting to make their presence felt. Grapes are
looking and tasting glorious with big fat cardinal and waltham cross varieties
readily available. We've been enjoying new season akane apples which are not too
sweet and have a lovely crisp texture.Tiny corella pears are also
appearing, and would be perfect if you're looking to serve poached pears for
dessert. The first pomegranates are available along with a host of different
plum varieties.
Tomatoes are looking good, and it seems to be a year where small is best.
The cherry tomatoes and baby romas we've eaten are the ones with the best
natural sweetness and flavour. There have been some amazing looking
eggplants with white skin and purple stripes, apparently they taste as amazing
as they look. There's also been a huge increase in the varieties of potatoes
and mushrooms on market stalls. So get out there and start cooking with the
new seasons ingredients while they're so good. Perhaps make the effort to visit
one of the many farmers markets you've been hearing about. Then come home
and cook up a storm with the seasons best.
Feasting time
Attempting to put together our pick of the Melbourne Food and Wine
Festival is an unenviable task. Just where do you start when there's a 66 page
brochure to work your way through containing over 100 events crammed into 17
days? We figure that you've heard plenty about big name events such as the Spice
Bazaar at Victoria Harbour, ABC delicious double acts, Snagtastica and the
Vogue Food Studios and have instead tried to search for a few hidden
gems:
- The Australian Centre for the Moving Image at Federation Square is
presenting a series of food films including Mostly Martha and Chocolat. 03)
8663 2583.
- BYO bags and trolleys to the Victorian Farmers Market along the Yarra
River Walk at Federation Square on Saturday 27th March.
- Join the Red Hill Cheese cheese makers for a hands-on workshop to learn
about washed rind, yogurt and ricotta on Sunday 28th March. Bookings on 03)
5989 2035.
- George Biron presents an informal lunch from the wood-fired oven at
his beautiful Birregurra property on 3rd and 4th April. Bookings on 03)
5236 2276.
- The Marvellous Melbourne Dinner on Friday 19th March features words from
Tim Flannery on the history of this city, plus recreated dishes from the first
100 years by Adrian Richardson, Greg Malouf and more. Max Allen is
sourcing wines that evoke the flavours and tastes of colonial times. Bookings
on 03) 9653 4660.
- The Margaret Fulton tribute dinner on Saturday 20th March will see chefs
Stephanie Alexander, Donna Hay, Suzanne Gibbs, Lyndey Milan and Gabriel Gate
present their favourite Margaret Fulton dish. Margaret will also present a
keynote speech. Proceeds will go to Stephanie Alexander's Kitchen Garden
Foundation. Bookings on 03) 9653 7744.
- ArtPlay is a new arts and cultural centre near federation Square and are
offering children's cooking classes with various chefs on 21st and 22nd March.
Bookings on 13 28 86.
- We were lucky enough to see actor Emma Poole presenting her one
woman Elizabeth David performance in 2003. It's a terrific mix of
performance, food and wine and well worth getting along to. Bookings on 03)
9685 5111.
- The Pub Brawl on Sunday 4th April celebrates many aspects of
Australian cultural life with a passionate debate held in the beer garden of
The Kingston Hotel. Entry price includes a BBQ steak and your first
pot. Bookings on 03) 9428 5841.
Food News
Christine Manfield is about to visit
our shores for cooking classes and demonstrations so we thought we'd have a look
at what the Brits think of her cooking at 'east at west' dining room in
London. Matthew Fort writing in the Guardian said "Manfield's cooking seems to
spark off severely divergent opinions. There are those who think it pretty
whizz-bang and there are those who, frankly, think it bloody awful. I am firmly
in the whizz-bang camp. Not only do I find the dishes themselves brilliant -
brilliant, that is, in terms of colour, contrast, definition, complexity and
balance; brilliant, too, as in vivid - but that the contrast between them also
sets up a kind of rhythm between the sets of flavours." He gave her a score
of 17.5/20. Just last month Tatler magazine's annual restaurant awards saw her
win the title of 'London's best new restaurant'. Sounds like things are
moving along quite nicely indeed.
St Kilda Farmers’ Market is the
latest to join a long list of urban markets on offer in Melbourne. They plan to
operate on the fourth Saturday of the month between 8.00 am – 12.30 pm. So put
Saturday March 27th into the diary now. Peanut Farm Oval, Chaucer & Spenser
Streets, St Kilda.
The Big Cheese. Will Studd has announced
the remaining four parts of his TV series Cheese Slices will be completed by
the Lifestyle Channel. The first two episodes aired late last
year with very good viewing figures it seems. The series explores benchmark
cheeses such as traditional English cheddar, gorgonzola, goats cheese in
south west France, parmigano and tallegio, just name just a few. It seems
there's also been interest from overseas TV stations to air the show as it takes
an international look at cheese.
Melbourne's Vue de Monde restaurant has an
incredible menu on offer later this month as Julian Castagna presents his new
release wines alongside recent years releases. The menu sounds incredible with
dishes like Canadian scallop wrapped in pancetta with a gruyere crust, placed
over cauliflower puree and dressed with an osso bucco sauce. Salad of crispy
fried pigs ear with roasted Port Philip Bay prawns, herb & truffle
vinaigrette. Main course will be Roast sirloin of Wagyu beef, resting on parsley
puree topped with local asparagus and beignet snails, drizzled with pan juices
and a sauce béarnaise. Sounds like quite a night. Bookings for this 7
course feast on Monday 22nd March ($199.00 pp), 03 9347
0199
www.vuedemonde.com.au
Divine Wine. If the wines of McLaren Vale are
something you love or would like to try more of then this is definitely for you.
Andrew Wood has his annual wine roadshow dedicated to the wines of this famous
district and expects to have around 35 producers represented and on for
tasting. In Melbourne on 3rd March, , Sydney on 10th March and
Canberra the following evening, March 11th. B
ookings and full details on (03) 5422 7500 or go to divineonline.com.au
The Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association
has just released a new touring map to this ever growing wine region. The map
includes details and opening hours of over fifty peninsula wine companies from
relative newcomers such as Foxeys Hangout, Marinda Park, and Scorpo to well
known labels such as Elgee Park, Osborns and Main Ridge. The maps also includes
information relating to local restaurants, food producers, markets, and wine
tour operators for those who prefer someone else to do the driving. Available
free on (03) 5989 2377 or
mpva@mpva.com.au
The annual Tastes of
Rutherglen is on again from March 6-16th with a range of
events on offer. A regional produce market will be held at Cofield wines (makers
of a seriously good sparkling red by the way). Each weekend sees local
restaurants teaming up with local wineries to offer a $15.00 pp wine/dish
combination. Simply pick up a glass for $5.50 to get started. For your free
program call 1300 787 929.
The
Coeliac Society of Australia contacted us
recently to let us know about a website they run dedicated to providing
information of use to those who require gluten free food. It seems the
number of people being diagnosed with this condition is growing so it's good to
know there's advice on hand. Contact them at
www.coeliac.org.au
Food Tours and cooking
classes
Convivial Times are certainly starting the year
off with a huge variety of classes for food lovers. Greg Doyle of Pier
Restaurant hosts a Chefs Table on Tuesday March 9, followed later in the
month by Peter Kuruvita of Flying Fish, Armando Percuoco of Ristorante
Buon Ricordo and many more. Workshops this month include an Ice Cream
Master Class at Serendipity and Hands-on Breadmaking Classes at Brasserie Bread
Co with Michael Klausen. Full details and bookings on
www.convivialtimes.com.au.
Queen Victoria Market Cooking School have lots on offer including Richard Momesso of
Il Bacaro presenting a great sounding class here on Saturday 13th
revolving around the use of salt, seafood and olive oil. Seafood is again the
focus when Yvan Meuiner steps into the kitchen on March 16th. Stewart
McVeigh of The Hotel Sofitel is booked in for Thursday 25th March to
showcase some of his highly regarded food including a wonderful blue swimmer
crab ravioli with scallop mousse, poached oysters and champagne veloute.
Bookings on 03) 9320 5835.
Gourmet Safaris are off to Mudgee at
the end of March on a special visit to trip to coincide with
the annual End of Harvest Festival. As well as visiting people who
make beautiful food, the tour group will also be guests at a
special gala dinner where
tour leader Maeve O'Meara will be a guest
speaker. Tour runs from Friday 26th - Sunday 28th March.
Full details on
www.gourmetsafaris.com.au
Cooking
Co-ordinates Later this month
you can get inspiration for vegetarian cooking with a class dedicated to
meatless cooking with Mary Wills on Saturday, March 20. The following Saturday
Graham Green, renowned chef/owner of The Green Herring, will share his secrets
to making terrines. This will draw on the best of seasonal ingredients and
includes a stunning leek, potato and Brie terrine; a simple pork and veal picnic
terrine; and a galantine of corn-fed chicken, roast capsicum and thyme.
Bookings via the website
www.belconnenmarkets.com.au or telephone 02) 6253
5132.
Sydney Seafood School There’s lots to learn at
here including the secrets of traditional Chinese salt and pepper prawns and the
contemporary chilli salt squid on March 4
th. Saturday 6
th
offers a Chinatown shopping trip followed by a Thai seafood cooking class.
Damien Pignolet from Bistro Moncur is in on the 13
th to present a
menu of modern French-bistro style food during a 3-hour hands-on lunch workshop.
Christine Manfield, now working at East@West in London, will be back for a
special class on
Saturday 20th too. This is bound to be very
popular session so get your bookings in now on 02) 9004 1111 or visit
www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au
Talk + Eat + Drink. March 9th brings Steve
Manfredi to prepare much-loved vegetable dishes from his native Italy. In this
class you will see why vegetables are so esteemed in Italian cuisine. On March
20th Andy Harris (editorial director of Australian Gourmet Traveller and The
Wine Magazine) and Simon Johnson team up to demonstrate some great recipes using
many of the products that Simon has sourced over the years. Christine Manfield
jets in to the demonstration kitchen for two very special classes on March 23rd
and 27th. Join her as she talks about the look and feel of her new restaurant
east@west, and cooks some of her favourite dishes from the menu. A food
opportunity not to be missed. Bookings on 02) 9552 2522.
The Melbourne Foodies Tours
we've organised for the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
are selling fast. If you're keen to get out and about during the festival join
us as we embark on tasting, talking and
walking tours around Melbourne (CBD)
, Fitzroy and Chinatown with Tony Tan. We'll also be taking to
the road on the Great Foodies Cake Tour. Expect lots of
tastings along the way and the low-down on the best places to enjoy great
food in this wonderful food city. Bookings on 03) 9652 0611.
A few drinks
We've been lucky enough to enjoy a few excellent Aussie wines over
summer. Fettlers Rest chardonnay from Geelong way was absolutely stunning,
which is saying something from two us who are not known for their love of
chardonnay. It was beautifully balanced and absolutely delicious with a recent
dish of chicken saltimbocca. Also excellent was the Coldstream Hills Briarstone
that was a delicious blending of cabernet and merlot. Try it with a few steaks
brushed with a little pomegranate syrup for an excellent match. If it’s a fresh
zesty riesling your after we loved the fragrant citrus flavours in a bottle of
Clonakilla we enjoyed with friends. If you've recently tried a wine which you
think was outstanding - let us know and we'll pass the word around.
Cheers, Allan and Michele
Tomato, olive and anchovy pasta
sauce
Try this tomato-based pasta sauce with a few other goodies thrown in for
good measure.
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely diced
1 garlic clove, crushed
500g (1 lb) fresh tomatoes, chopped
2 tsp anchovies, chopped
2 tbsp tiny salted capers, rinsed and chopped
100g (3 1/2 oz) pitted kalamata olives.
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fresh herbs
Heat a heavy-based pan over medium heat, add olive oil and cook onion until
soft, add garlic, cook for a minute or two, then add tomatoes. Allow to come to
the boil, then reduce heat, add anchovies, capers and olives. Cook for 5–8
minutes until sauce reduces. Add fresh herbs of your choice (basil or parsley),
check seasoning and serve with the pasta of your choice.
Baked apples stuffed with figs and
hazelnuts
Baked apples are an old-fashioned dessert that deserve renewed interest.
Choose a slightly tart variety such as Granny Smith or Jonathan.
150g (5 oz) dried figs
125 ml (4 fl oz–1/2 cup) muscat
20g (2/3 oz) butter
Grated zest of 1 orange
100 ml (3 1/2 fl oz) orange juice
50g (1 3/4 oz) chopped roast hazelnuts
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp ground ginger
35g (1 1/3 oz) dry breadcrumbs
6 apples
Thinly slice figs and place in a small saucepan with muscat, butter, zest
and orange juice. Place over medium heat and stir until it comes to the boil.
Remove from the heat and allow to cool. When cool mix with hazelnuts, nutmeg,
ginger and breadcrumbs.
Preheat oven to 180C (350F). Remove the core from each apple leaving a wide
opening at the top to allow easier filling, also prick the skin with a fork to
ensure they do not split during cooking. Divide the fig and nut mix between the
apples. Place the apples into a buttered baking dish; add 1/3 cup of water,
cover with foil and bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes. Remove foil and
continue cooking a further 15 minutes or until apples are tender.
Serves 6