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Campion & Curtis Newsletter - July 2006
Welcome to the latest Campion and Curtis newsletter. We know it's been a while since our last edition, and thanks to all those who have sent e-mails
to enquire. We have been spending the time productively however putting the final touches to a number of new Campion and Curtis books and a newspaper
column which starts today (more of that later). We started this newsletter as a way of writing about food and wine in a personal way and to have the
opportunity to pass on news and ideas on topics which are particularly close to our hearts. Hence lots of news about seasonal produce, farmers'
markets, Slow Food, festivals and events, the Australian food scene (with a leaning towards our home town of Melbourne) new cookbooks and much more besides.
The first edition was released in August 2002 and was sent to a
few dozen friends and industry colleagues, this was in a time before the word web blog was widely known. This is our 43rd edition of the newsletter and it'll be going out to
around 1000 subscribers and will be read by many more visitors to the site, currently around 10,000 people per month. So thanks to all those who take
the time to log on each month. Regards, Allan and Michele.
Visit the Campion and Curtis home page
Winter produce
We are definitely in the midst of a real winter this year, one which started early and is proving to be particularly cold and occasionally wet.
All of this means that seasonal cooking is even more important. Those living in the cooler parts of Australia should be making the most of the chance
to enjoy warming soups, hearty casseroles and pies, delicious pot roasts, spicy curries and warming desserts. The ingredients for this cooking are in
abundance in markets and
fruit and vegetable stores everywhere. It's also incredibly good value and of top quality. So ignore those imported cherries and
instead pick up bosc pears, fragrant quinces, pink lady apples, rhubarb, beautiful mandarins and oranges. On the vegetable side its time to enjoy cabbage,
leeks, carrots (particularly sweet this year), the many potato varieties, pumpkin, swedes, parsnips, turnips and so much more.
Also must mention meats for this time of year having sighted beautiful hare, wild rabbit, kangaroo and duck at local markets in recent weeks. There are a couple of
our favourite winter recipes at the end of this newsletter, plus wines to match and enjoy.
PS: The good conditions have seen a second harvest of the Manjimup Truffles from Western Australia. The sell for around $2500 per kilo, however only
a little is needed to enjoy the amazing aroma and flavour. It may even help our balance of payments by not importing so many truffles from France and Italy!
They are available at Simon Johnson stores nationally.
The 15th Symposium of Australian Gastronomy
More details have just been released for the next Symposium of Australian Gastronomy to be held in Tasmania in 2007.
It may seem a long way away but it's great to see the committee getting such a great program together.
Symposium details
Registration form
Mark Olive tour to Tuscany
Mark Olive has had an amazingly varied career as a film maker, chef and more recently presenter on ABC's Message Stick program where he gets to pass on
his passion for using native Australian ingredients. Well he's about to add another string to his bow with a tour to Italy in October (14th-21st). This seven day trip will
be based in Villa Buonvisi, near Pisa. From here the group will learn about native bush foods and see how local chefs use them alongside Mark.
Sounds like an amazing culinary journey. Details and booking
here.
A Taste of Slow - Australia 2006
A Taste of Slow kick off in Melbourne last year and it's undeniable success has led to an even bigger program in 2006. It's reputed to be the largest
Slow event outside of Italy, which only goes to show how Melbournians' are hungry for quality food and wine experiences. The program kicks off on August 28th
with a series of activities organised by Victorian Slow Food Convivia. From Gippsland to the Yarra Valley and from the Mornington
Peninsula to Mildura, there'll be an opportunity to enjoy local wines and get hands-on with classes in everything from bread making to learning how to
build a wood-fired oven.
In Melbourne many events will again be centered at the Abbotsford Convent (beside the Collingwood Children's Farmer's Market) for a weekend of
Slow Food experiences on September 9th and 10th. Highlights include a Slow Market Place with producers from around Australia showcasing seasonal
produce and boutique wines, children's food education and activities featuring Stephanie Alexander and her children's edible garden, two slow cooking
demonstration areas focusing on national and international guest chefs. The major draw card this year is without a doubt Fergus Henderson, from
St John restaurant in London. The Convent will also feature the traditional Slow Food eatery, plus wines from the Wine Library. The Spoken Word Forums
are also excellent
with lively debates on topics such as trends in Slow Food and the Health Properties of Raw Milk. There's also the official Slow Food Terra Madre
Dinner on Saturday 9th September). All in all it's quite a program, so get onto the website and register to recieve updates. Ticket sales will begin
on July 31st. A Taste of Slow. General inquiries on 03 9823 6100.
Campion & Curtis news
So just what have we been up to since our last newsletter? Well you'll be pleased to know we have a new column beginning this week in Epicure (The Age)
called Kitchen Basics View online here.
In it we'll explore great home cooking, as we do in many of our cookbooks, and to kick it off we've included one of our favourite recipes for spaghetti
with braised meatballs in tomato sugo. We've also been working on three new books, which is a lot even for us.
The upside is there will be plenty of new releases to
enjoy in the months ahead. This will include the 2007 Seasonal Produce Diary in September plus a completely updated 2007
Foodies' Guide to Melbourne in October.
We also have a new cookbook on the way titled Every Day Cooking. This will be a companion to our book Every Day in the Kitchen, which will be
released at the same time. All of the new books are looking beautiful thanks to terrific work from the team at Hardie Grant Books. Anyhow all of
those efforts will be on the shelves before we know it. Naturally we'll have a sneak preview for you all here first!
The Best of Friends Cookbook
Every now and then a cookbook comes along with a story behind it that you just cannot ignore. The Best of Friends is one such book. In 1994 Frenchman
Sebastien Marot was visiting Cambodia and was faced with the extreme poverty that street children were facing. Many of us have had such an experience,
the difference here is that Sebastien decided to do something about it. He and a couple of colleagues set up a training centre for local children called
Mith Samlanh/Friends and it has made an incredible difference in Phnom Penh. The centre offers children training and vocational skills in areas like mechanics,
hairdressing, and very importantly cooking. Starting with just 17 children over 10 years ago, Mith Samlanh/Friends now works with 1800 children on a daily basis
in 12 different centers. As well as training the centers also offer a boarding house, literacy classes, HIV/AIDS and
drug awareness programs. The Best of Friends cookbook has been created in the Friends restaurant by the children and staff as
a fundraiser for their incredible project. In a time when we seem to be bombarded by bad news and conflict, it's heartening to see a group of
people who are dedicating their lives to making a difference for others. BHP Biliton has assisted with creating the book and making it available
locally. The Best of Friends, The Restaurant $39.95. Available through Books For Cooks, 233-235 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy 8415 1415.
Top Melbourne Food Stores
Melbourne is well known for its amazing array of Italian, Greek, Middle Eastern and Asian food shops. Here we've assembled a list of stores which
specialise in cuisines and ingredients outside those main areas: Mexican, Spanish, Russian, American and even South African.
Aztec
Factory 1, 8 Adina Court Tullamarine 9330 1733 Mon-Thurs 8 am-4.30 pm; Fri 8 am-4 pm Melway 15 H4.
Mexican food is hardly the biggest influence on the Melbourne food scene, but for those who are fans we have a terrific place to shop for authentic
ingredients. To get there you'll need to head to Aztec Imports in Tullamarine who supply products directly to restaurants around town.
A small showroom is packed with many dried chilli varieties, including jalapeno, pequin, ancho, mulato, embasa, el rancho, chipotle and serrano.
You can also source tortillas, drinking chocolate, corn chips, frozen guacamole and all the taco shells, sauces, salsas, chilli powder, spice blends
and seasonings you could ever need.
Casa Iberica
25 Johnston Street Fitzroy 9419 4420 Mon-Thurs 9 am-5 pm; Fri 9 am-6 pm; Sat 9 am-1 pm Melway 2C A7.
One whiff of Casa Iberica's heady aromas of Spanish jamon, spicy chorizo sausage and imported cheeses and you're instantly whisked away to the
Iberian Peninsula, at least in spirit. The jamon and chorizo are a must-buy, as are the full-flavoured Manchego cheese, tinned tuna, smoky paprika,
marinated olives and other tapas-friendly ingredients. This is also a top spot to source the best Spanish rice, paella pans and terracotta dishes.
Last, but certainly not least, you can never leave without picking up a supply of some of the best Portuguese tarts in Melbourne.
The Dutch Shop
1 Alfred Street Blackburn 9894 0288 Mon-Fri 9.30 am-5 pm; Sat-Sun 10 am-5 pm Melway 48 B10
If your passions are Dutch, or indeed Asian, foods, then this is the place for you. The mix of produce is quite incredible, reflecting the owner's
background. The huge selection of foods from Holland includes a choice of gouda, emmental and gruyère cheeses, traditional smallgoods such as
rootwurst and 20 different types of liquorice, from traditional salt to the sweeter red varieties. The afore-mentioned Asian products include bottled
sauces and dried noodles.
Flavours, Herbs & Spices
113 Chapel Street Windsor 9521 3288 Tues-Fri 10 am-5.30 pm; Sat 10 am-4 pm; Sun 11 am-4 pm Melway 2P H1.
This shop has so many good things on its shelves, but the standout is their own range of spices, which runs the gamut from allspice to wattle seed.
The shop also stocks dressings, spice blends, mustards, chutneys and relishes, saucepans and tagines, casserole dishes and other kitchen utensils
and tableware. Gift ideas for the other foodies in your life include aprons and cook books, platters, whisks and salad servers.
Indomart Asian Grocers
739 Glenferrie Road Hawthorn 9818 8507 Daily 10 am-9 pm Melway 45 D9.
The focus at Indomart is on ingredients from Indonesia, the Philippines, Japan, Korea and China. The tightly packed shelves are groaning with sauces,
pickles, dried noodles, rice and spice pastes, and a select range of fresh Asian greens, aromatic herbs, vegetables and fruit is available. There is
also a good choice of Asian drinks, from green tea to sparkling tropical fruit, and friendly staff are on hand to offer advice.
Russian Tidbits
113 Koornang Road Carnegie 9572 3911 Mon-Fri 9 am-6 pm; Sat 8 am-5 pm; Sun 9 am-5 pm Melway 68 J4.
How, you have to wonder, does a shop specialising in Russian smallgoods survive in downtown Carnegie? Well, survive it does because the range is
fantastic, the welcome warm and you just know that you'll come away with something really interesting. There are sausages from virtually all the
former Soviet Union republics and the staff are happy to describe each one if needed. There's also cheeses, good-quality rye breads,
pickled herrings, preserved ingredients like cabbage and gherkins.
The South African Shop
Upper level, Shop 7-8, rear 112 James Street Templestowe 9846 8322 Mon-Thurs 9 am-5.30 pm; Fri 9 am-6 pm; Sat 9 am-4 pm; Sun 10.30 am-1.30 pm
Melway 33 D4. Also at: 461 Hawthorn Road, Caulfield South, 9523 7633.
Most Melburnians' knowledge of South African food and ingredients goes no further than biltong. The South African Shop aims to change that situation
by importing a huge range of products and brands including Simba Chips, Fizz Pops and Black Cat peanut bars for the young at heart. Rooibos tea is
also available alongside Frisco coffee, Ceres Juice and Roses Kola. Breakfast cereals include Tasty Wheat and Creamy Meal. The smallgoods selection
features biltong (of course), plus beef boerewors and Escort pork sausages. Confectionary includes chocolate bars and the popular Tiny Tots.
USA Foods
11 Nicholson Street Bentleigh 9576 5655 Mon and Wed-Fri 10 am-5 pm; Sat 10 am-3 pm; Sun 11 am-2 pm Melway 68 D12.
Americans longing for a taste of home can get their hands on a variety of great US products here, including perennially popular breakfast cereals
like Captain Crunch, Grits and Lucky Charms, plus Jiffy buttermilk pancake mix for breakfast or brunch. Confectionery is huge here and appeals to
the child in all of us. The shelves are filled with Baby Ruth bars, Hershey caramel kisses and almond chocolate bars, Jujubes and famous cookies like
Mrs Fields and Oreos. You don't have to come from the US of A to want to spend some quality time here.
Cheers until next month, Allan and Michele
Visit the Campion and Curtis home page
Beef and shiraz pie with roasted winter vegetables
This rich, heart-warming pie is superb on a cold winter's night. The roasted vegetables - parsnip, turnip, carrot and swede - are vegetables that
have fallen out of favour in recent years, so let's do our part to keep them on the table.
plain flour
1.5 kg blade or skirt steak, diced
olive oil
2 onions, sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
250 ml (1 cup) shiraz
500 ml (2 cups) beef stock
2 small turnips
1 swede
4 parsnips
3 carrots
250 g puff pastry
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
Season flour with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Coat beef pieces in the flour then gently toss in a sieve to shake off any excess.
Heat a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat.
Add a splash of oil and cook the beef in batches until browned all over (you may need to add a little more oil with each batch).
Return all the beef to the saucepan along with onions, garlic, shiraz and stock and bring to the boil.
Add a pinch of salt and pepper, reduce the heat, cover with a lid and cook for 1 1/2-2 hours or until the beef is tender.
Stir the mixture occasionally.
Preheat oven to 180°C.
Peel vegetables and cut into a large dice.
Place in a large bowl and toss with a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper.
Divide between two roasting trays to give the vegetables plenty of space.
Place in the oven and cook for 50-60 minutes or until tender and browned around the edges.
Meanwhile, spoon the hot pie filling into a 2-litre pie dish.
Roll out puff pastry to a size large enough to cover the dish.
Place pastry over the dish and press the edges firmly to it.
Brush the pastry with egg yolk.
Bake in the oven until golden brown (around 20-30 minutes).
Serve with the roasted vegetables.
Serves 4-6
Wine match
Shiraz has a crowd appealing mix of big, rich flavours coupled with plenty of sweetness and spice to help it match easily with lots of different
dishes. It's a perfect partner with all sorts of dishes from a pan fried rump steak to braised pork belly and this month's beef pie with roasted
winter vegetables. Australia winemakers have led the way in creating this contemporary style of shiraz and there are virtually hundreds of wines
we could recommend you try. A few standout favourites include Mitchelton, Bobbie Burns, Tahbilk and Craiglee, especially if they've had seven or
eight years to age gracefully in a cool cellar.
Pear, walnut and spice pudding with muscat cream
A good steamed pudding is our favourite dessert in the cooler months. This version with its combination of pear, walnuts, raisins and spices is a
winner, especially finished with a dollop of muscat cream.
2 firm pears such as beurre bosc or packham
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
55 g (1/3 cup) raisins
50 g (1/2 cup) walnuts, roughly chopped
80 ml (1/3 cup) muscat
125 g butter, softened
110 g (1/2 cup) caster sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 medium eggs
200 g (1 1/3 cups) self-raising flour
100 g mascarpone
100 ml cream
2 tablespoons icing sugar
Peel, quarter and core the pears, then roughly chop them.
Place in a bowl and toss with brown sugar, nutmeg and cinnamon. Add raisins, walnuts and half the muscat.
Cream butter, sugar and vanilla in a large mixing bowl until light and fluffy.
Add eggs one at a time, mixing well after each. Stir in the flour then fold in the pear mixture.
Butter a 2-litre pudding bowl and spoon in the pudding mixture.
Cover with a circle of buttered greaseproof paper and seal the top with foil.
To hold the foil in place, tie a piece of string around the rim of the bowl or use a sturdy elastic band.
Place the pudding bowl in a large pot and add enough water to come three-quarters of the way up the side of the bowl.
Cover with a lid and bring to the boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 2 hours.
Check the water level from time to time, adding more if needed.
For the muscat cream, place mascarpone, cream, icing sugar and remaining muscat in a bowl and whisk to combine.
Refrigerate until needed.
Remove pudding bowl from the water and allow to stand for 10 minutes.
Remove the foil and greaseproof paper and run a small knife or spatula around the pudding to loosen it.
Unmould it onto a platter and serve with the muscat cream.
Serves 6
Wine match
If there's a better way to enjoy a steamed pudding in late autumn that with a glass of sweet, sticky tokay or muscat, we'd like to know about it.
Australia has a well established centre of tokay and muscat production in Rutherglen, Victoria. Here fortified wines have been a
staple for over a century. The best examples of this style are rich and sweet with aromas of treacle and spice. All of which is beautifully balanced
with a hit of spirit to create an incredible balance. These are wines to be sipped and enjoyed. Look for wines such as the Isabella Rare
from Campbell's, Seppelt DP59 and Buller's Calliope.
Recipes from The Seasonal Produce Diary 2006.