Campion & Curtis Newsletter - January 2007
Welcome to the latest Campion and Curtis newsletter. We trust everyone had a Christmas and New Year filled with the very best food and wine. As we're into January and
summer 2007 the focus is on ingredients and recipes to assist with great salads over the coming weeks. If you're keen to let someone else to do the cooking there
is also a rundown on some great places to eat, some in Melbourne, others in regional Victoria. There's also a few foodie
observations and highlights from road trips to North East Victoria and Canberra. Plus news of the upcoming Grape Grazing event to jot into the diary. Enjoy!
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Summer produce
There is no doubt summer is a terrific time to get into good cooking. Everything tastes so good and the meals you're most likely to prepare are at the simpler end of the
scale - BBQ's, salads, pizzas, platters to share, picnic food and even sandwiches. The range of fresh ingredients is superb at present across fruit and vegetable varieties.
Stone fruit is a standout this summer, peaches and nectarines in particular. Good cherries are still available, which is quite late, but a welcome addition to January
fruit salads. Mangoes are continuing to be great eating and for those who can't live without a morning smoothie, bananas are back to regular prices. This is not to overlook raspberries,
pineapples, strawberries and watermelon. On the salad side avocadoes are in good supply as are cucumbers, tomatoes and lettuces. For the barbie don't forget to add some
sweetcorn, capsicums, eggplant and zucchini to the usual mix of lamb, seafood and chicken. There are many salad recipes at the end of this newsletter to get you started.
Canberra road trip 
The summer holidays have been filled with a number of road trips, including one from Melbourne to Canberra. It has to be said that the options for good eating
on our major highways has taken a beating in recent times. Fast food chains are taking over the traditonal roadhouse scene with predictable outcomes of
really poor food and little choice. A notable loss has been the small food store at The Dog on the Tucker Box just north of Gundagai. The sign on the door said it all -
The big boys finally got us! So instead of the opportunity of picking up a decent toasted sandwich or egg and bacon roll, visitors now trek to the food court set-up at the
local petrol station for a choice between McDonalds, KFC, Subway and a burger bar. A few days in Canberra visiting the local attractions was not much better on the
food front. Exceptions were the smart cafes at The National Library, followed by The National Gallery. All others seem to be run by operators who
know nothing except how to deep fry food and place a couple of plastic covered sandwiches in the drinks fridge. If these two institutions can get it right, why not the
others? For those with an opportunity to visit Canberra the best current exhibitions include Donald Friend (National Library) and Egyptian antiquities from the Louvre (
National Gallery).
North East Victoria road trip
North East Victoria is a favourite place to unwind at any time of the year. Love the landscape which mixes European and native trees and imposing mountain peaks, and
there is a terrific food and wine culture too. Had a great lunch at the Milawa Cheese Factory along the way, also stocked up on some excellent goats' milk cheeses -
the beautifully creamy, ash coated pyramid known as Affine and the sweet and nutty Capricornia in particular. Also stocked up on some goodies from
Milawa Mustards (love the French style seeded mustard) and Whiteheads Honey
(the raw honey and the creamed honey are both excellent). Bright offers a terrific spot to while away the early evenings with a cold beer at Bright Brewery.
Sit back with a large chilled glass of their excellent Pioneer Ale and enjoy the screeching parrots as the sun sets into the trees.
Simone's of Bright has long been the jewel in the crown of NE Victoria. George and Patrizia Simone have been
operating their restaurant for around 20 years now, and have been picking up chefs hats from The Age Good Food Guide since 1994. Simone's was established at
the Ovens Valley Motor Inn but in recent times has made the move to the centre of Bright into a beautiful old doctors' surgery.
The cooking is decidedly Italian leaning and based on Simone's Italian heritage; she is also a staunch promoter of local seasonal ingredients. So how was the food?
Well, it probably one of the best meals in the past 12 months and it'll be a while before it's topped. Consider deep fried zucchini flowers with a
filling of taleggio risotto, local smoked venison thinly sliced and drizzled with a delicately sweet and sour vegetable pickle or the amazing slow roasted duck ravioli.
Main courses included a dish of boned and rolled roasted rabbit which was wrapped with pancetta and served with a stunning reduction sauce.
It was accompanied by a stunning potato mash and spinach gnocchi too. The local beef also featured as an eye fillet steak which was perfectly cooked and accompanied by two sauces, and a selection of locally grown vegetables.
An Italian salad offered a great foil to the rich meaty main courses.
Dessert too? You bet when you're enjoying cooking this fine and it offers an
opportunity to indulge in Simone's semifreddo served with balsamic vinegar doused strawberries on panettone. There's also an affogato of their own rum and
raisin ice cream with a shot of black coffee and Frangellico on the side to add at you leisure. Add to this mix the gorgeous service led by George and his team of lovely
ladies and a massive wine list which draws on local and imported Italian varieties and you have the complete package.
This is a restaurant that all those interested in great cooking should make the journey to. Simone's of Bright,
98 Gavan St, Bright, Victoria, open Tuesday – Saturday. Tel 03 5755 2266 - bookings are essential.
Grape Grazing in the Yarra Valley
The annual Yarra Valley Grape Grazing Festival celebrates its 20 birthday on Saturday 17th and Sunday 18th February 2007. 17 wineries in all will be offering
the best in food, wine and music just before they gear up for vintage. The "grazing" focus of the festival will allow food lovers to sample dishes such as a traditional
Burgundian Coq au Vin presented by Mercer's Restaurant at Lovegrove Vineyard. Award winning Italian Restaurant Tutto Bene's chef Simon Humble will prepare a special
champagne breakfast at Killara Estate and visitors to St. Huberts will enjoy delights from the Rathdowne Street Food Store. The Valley will be humming all weekend
with music fans grooving to all styles of music including Cuban, reggae, R&B and jazz. Food, wine and music will be offered on both days of the festival.
Grape Grazing passes are essential at a cost of $35 per person which includes a souvenir glass, glass of wine, an entree sized meal, a tea or coffee and a bottle
of water. Full details are available on Grape Grazing Festival 2007 website.
Bookings/Enquiries call the Yarra Valley Wine Growers Association: 03 5962 6600.
The Guide to Farmers' Markets Australia and New Zealand
The growth of top quality farmers' markets is something to be proud of in the Australian food scene. There have been plenty of pretenders however who call themselves
a FM, but are far from the ideal expression where top quality growers and producers come together to offer shoppers an opportunity to buy the very best seasonal
produce directly. It's been groups such as the Australian Farmers Markets' Association who have set the bar high to ensure the quality level remains in place. To
assist shoppers with finding the best markets they have produced The Guide to Farmers' Markets Australia and New Zealand. The 460-page guidebook devotes four pages to each
farmers' market - more than 80 in all states of Australia and 20 in New Zealand - ranging from larger weekly markets to monthly events in smaller centers.
This is an essential glove box publication for all those who love FM. Available now from bookstores, newsagents and at markets themselves for $19.95, plus via the
AFM website.
Foodies' Bus tour of Melbourne
There has been a terrific response to the new Foodies Bus Tour of Melbourne since it was launched in December. So good in fact that we have a full house for the first
tour in February and have just announced a second tour. 
Bookings are now open for a Foodies' Bus tour of Melbourne on Saturday 31st Match 2007.
This could be the perfect gift for the food-lover in your life.
Official Foodies' Bus Tour blurb - Join chef and food author Allan Campion as he leads food lovers on a bus ride to his all time favourite foodie places.
Along the way you'll discover amazing coffee in a South Melbourne roasting house, taste stunning pastries from one of the most gorgeous bakeries in town.
Then there's the tutored olive oil tasting and a wander through the heart of Prahran Market for hand made chocolate truffles.
A quick yum cha will follow before the mini bus whisks everyone across the Yarra.
Here its time for a cheese tasting at one of the cities best providores, then a visit to Melbourne's long running Casa Iberica for stunning Spanish jamon.
This is followed by a trip to the streets of Carlton for amazing gelati. Finally it's off to funky Fitzroy for a glass of wine and a visit to an incredible foodie
book store. Along the way Allan will also bring everyone up to date on the latest and greatest places to eat around town, plus all the most up-to-date foodies' news
and information. If there was to be an ultimate food tour through Melbourne this would have to be it. Download a Foodies' Bus Tour of Melbourne fact sheet here.
The tour is conducted in a mini bus at a cost of $115.00 per person. To book a place on the March 31st 2007 tour click the Add to Basket button -
Social and corporate groups can also book their own private Foodies Bus tour on any Monday to Saturday. To make an enquiry by email click here
allan@campionandcurtis.com.
Summer Restaurant rundown
Oyster Little Bourke occupies a site which has not been successful for a number of other restaurant operators.
That history seems irrelevant to the current team of Luke Stringer (front of house), Joseph Vargetto (kitchen) and restaurateur Frank Wilden who have created
a glam, smart bistro in the heart of the CBD. Having eaten here both as a guest of the Oyster team, and independently, it never fails to please.
As the name suggests there's an area dedicated to oysters of course, with everything from oysters freshly opened to order through to oysters kilpatrick, cheese gratin and
oysters florentine. There's also a menu of small tastes and plates available from the bar, plus a top selection of well chosen wine by the glass. Vargetto's menu
takes a quality approach with the very best porterhouse and rib eye available. There's also excellent veal, crayfish, duck, scallops
and tuna on the menu. For those who love a sweet finish to their night, summer desserts ranges from marinated berries with zabaglione to watermelon jelly with
passionfruit granita. Oyster is a smart and very adaptable place to dine in this vibrant part of Little Bourke Street.
Oyster Little Bourke 35 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne 03 9650 0988.
Gingerboy is one of Melbourne's newest openings and the latest from Teague Ezard. He's set up a great looking place
which really fits in with the idea of presenting
his version of hawker food from Singapore, Malaysia and Hong Kong, plus his cook book Lotus. The restaurant design is quite interesting with a black bamboo lined walls and
ceiling, studded with tiny star lights, and a beautiful red Asian inspired light fitting in the front of the room. One or two reviews have found the food to be a little less than exciting when
it comes to the flavours in certain dishes. Others were more than happy with what was presented. I'm definately in the second group and really loved the gutsy,
traditional full flavours and textures. There are small plates to start the meal - things like chicken satay dumplings and crispy chilli cuttlefish.
This is followed by larger dishes like the excellent steamed sea bass with soy, mirin and ginger dressing and wagyu beef brisket with black vinegar pepper sauce and
garlic jam. The deserts are very good too with steamed pandan dumplings, lime tarts and the amazing Chinese doughnuts with chilli raspberry jam.
Sydney no longer has the monopoly on modern Asian cooking thanks to Gingerboy!
Gingerboy 27-29 Crossley Street Melbourne 9662 4200
Also a reminder of two marvellous dining rooms which have been recently included in this newsletter - Three, One, Two and Bar Lourinha.
Had the good fortune to already have a booking in-place at Three, One, Two before their recent awards. No doubt the phone is running hot there now,
and it'll take some time to get a booking. If you do you're in for a real treat. The duo of Andrew McConnell and Pascale Gomes-McNabb
have put together a beautiful room and a terrific service team. Even the crockery is specially chosen, a trend we loved at Vue de Monde, and
hope will continue into many other places. The menu is one which is small, but delightfully seasonal. When we visited the starter of oysters with
a side serving of fresh lime salsa was an absolute wonder. Especially with a glass of William Fevre Chablis.
So good we ordered another plate to share. At this stage we keep the French wine theme going and splashed on a bottle of burgundy to go with
entrees including a stunning confit ocean trout, plus a terrific rabbit pate. This high standard continued with main courses of baby snapper,
and a very interesting artichoke and potato gnocchi dish. Andrew's apple confit dessert with a glass of sauternes made a fitting
finish to a memorable meal. One not to be missed, even if you do have to make a booking for a few months time. It'll be worth the wait.
Three, One, Two - 312 Drummond Street, Carlton, 03 9347 3312.
Keeping it in the family, there has also been an opportunity to get into Matt McConnell's (Andrews brother) new place in the CBD. Bar Lourinha is a very stylish
place with a strong Spanish/Portuguese theme to the look and the food. As you'd expect the room is dominated by a long bar, with lots of stools
so you can prop yourself up and peruse the menu and wines on offer. Loved the freshly-shucked oysters which came complete with its sea juices, the
chargrilled tiger prawns with chilli salt are fantastic too. Don't miss the spicy rabbit empanadillas (little pies), which are really delicious
with a glass of imported red. Bar Lourinha also hosts paella nights from time to time, which are going down a treat we hear.
One to really enjoy through the day or late at night, when you are in need of some tapas action. Bar Lourinha 37 Little Collins Street Melbourne 03 9663 7890.
Summer recipes
Chickpea, feta and coriander salad
When using feta in salads such as this, go for the softer-style feta in olive oil rather than the usual firm cheese in brine. It adds a rich and salty hit.
1 x 400 g can chickpeas, drained and well rinsed
1 red onion, thinly sliced
150 g feta, crumbled
1 cup coriander leaves
1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp pomegranate molasses
60 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lightly toss together the chickpeas, onion, feta and herbs.
Add the lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, oil, salt and pepper.
Serve immediately.
Serves 4-6.
Eggplant, pine nut and coriander salad
This eggplant salad is seriously good. It's similar to caponata, and has a touch of the Middle East with coriander, currants and pine nuts. It's great with roast beef, barbecued lamb chops and roast chicken.
3 eggplants
Salt
Oil for cooking
3 tbsp currants
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
3 tomatoes, diced
1 cup coriander leaves
100 g (2/3 cup) toasted pine nuts
160 g (1 cup) pitted green olives, halved
2 tbsp capers, soaked in cold water
60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut the eggplants in half, then slice each half to form 1 cm thick semi-circle slices.
Sprinkle with salt and set aside for 20 minutes until juices bead on the surface.
Rinse the eggplant and dry well. Brush the eggplant with oil and grill until tender and golden brown on each side. Set aside to cool.
Soak the currants in vinegar for 20 minutes.
Place them in a large bowl, along with the cooled eggplant, diced tomatoes, coriander leaves, pine nuts and olives.
Drain the capers, chop coarsely and add to the eggplant salad.
Add extra-virgin olive oil, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and toss all the ingredients together.
Place in a bowl to serve.
Serves 4-6.
Thai beef salad
For a main-course salad to share, try barbecuing marinated steak and serving it sliced over fresh salad ingredients.
2 x 200 g sirloin steaks
2 tbsp fish sauce
1/4 tsp chilli paste
200 g mixed salad leaves
2 tomatoes, sliced
1 small cucumber, sliced
60 g bean sprouts
1 tbsp lime juice
1 tbsp soy sauce
60 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil
50 g (1/3 cup) roasted peanuts
1/2 cup coriander leaves
Place the steaks in a flat dish. Combine the fish sauce and chilli paste.
Brush the marinade onto the steaks and marinate for at least 2 hours.
Place the salad leaves in a serving bowl and top with the tomatoes, cucumber and bean sprouts.
Mix together the lime juice, soy sauce and oil to make a lime dressing.
Place the steaks on a hot barbecue and cook for 6 minutes, rotating as needed.
Turn the steaks over and cook for a further 4-5 minutes, again rotating as needed.
Allow the steaks to rest on a cool part of the barbecue for 5 minutes before serving.
Thinly slice the steaks and place them on top of the prepared salad.
Drizzle with the lime dressing and sprinkle with peanuts and coriander.
Serves 4.
All salad recipes are from Every Day Cooking by Allan Campion and Michele Curtis (Hardie Grant Books) $39.95
Available from bookshops and online at the Campion and Curtis website.
Visit the Campion and Curtis home page for details of upcoming cooking classes, food tours and public events.