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Campion & Curtis Newsletter - August 2006
Welcome to the latest Campion and Curtis newsletter. Just last month we were writing about the wintery weather being experienced in many parts of Australia.
Well what a difference a month makes. There are signs of Spring everywhere we look with plenty of blossom on trees, daffodils popping up in gardens
and a noticeable warmth in the air as temperatures begin to edge up a few degrees. This edition marks our fourth anniversary since we started producing the C&C
newsletter in August 2002, and thanks for all of those who send us emails, questions, queries and information to add and discuss. One of these recent
correspondents was looking for a copy of our chilli jam recipe, which we were able to provide. It's included at the bottom of this edition for all to try.
Regards, Allan and Michele.
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Winter produce
It's that time of year when winter produce is just beginning to fade and a couple of really interesting ingredients make their mark. One of those is
blood oranges which seem to be having as particularly good season. Brilliant for making breakfast juice and as a great change in an orange and almond cake.
Also consider mixing the juice from a blood orange with a little sherry vinegar and olive oil for a beautifully fresh salad dressing. This is really good with
strongly flavoured seafood such as Moreton bay bugs, lobster and prawns. Mandarins, Lady Williams's apples, custard apples, grapefruits and tangelos
are also worth a try. Looking good in the vegetable side of things are Asian greens, broccoli, cauliflower, leeks, potatoes and sweet potatoes. Get
out to your local market and enjoy the seasons best.
A Taste of Slow - Australia 2006
As we mentioned in the last edition, A Taste of Slow kicks off in Melbourne this month. The full program has now been released and bookings are open. As always
there is a huge selection of regional events across the state hosted by local Slow Food groups. In Gippsland get All Fired Up as you learn how to build your own wood fired oven
or celebrate La Dolce Vita in Drouin with a four course feast. The Goulburn River and Ranges group are offering the change to learn how to make
camembert and ricotta at Stirring the Curd, while down the road at Central Victoria see if you have what it takes to be a champion camp oven cook in
the Camp Oven Cook Off. There's also A Slow Start to Spring on the Mornington Peninsula, the Fresh as a Daisy Cheese Class in the Yarra Valley, while
Albury Wodonga celebrate the traditions and techniques of artisan smallgoods' producers at the Smoke, Salt, Skin: Smallgoods & Charcuterie Festival.
Nineteen winemakers from Rutherglen will be showcasing their renowned wines with a five course regional inspired "Slow" dinner on Wednesday, August 30th
at Melbourne Hilton on the Park, East Melbourne.
Many of Melbourne's events will take place in and around the Abbotsford Convent (beside the Collingwood Children's Farmer's Market) with chefs
demonstrations (including guest chef Fergus Henderson, from St John restaurant in London), a full program of lively debates, a Slow Market Place and
children's food education and activities featuring Stephanie Alexander and her children's edible garden. Don't miss the delicious foods at the
traditional Slow Food eatery, with food prepared by guest chefs, and a glass or two of vino from the Wine Library. Tickets are now available at A Taste of Slow. General inquiries on 03 9823 6100.
Australian Specialist Cheese Show
It's that time again when cheese lovers get an opportunity to taste local cheeses to their hearts content. The Australian Specialist Cheese Show is happening
on Sunday 13th August at Crown's Palladium Room. Over 150 cheeses are expected to be on offer from over cheesemakers across the country. Participants can also join in
a Master Class on the art of cheese and wine matching, vote for their favourite cheese in the People's Choice Award and also learn who will take home
the trophy for champion cheese. Tickets available at door or at the
Australian Specialist Cheesemakers website or telephone (03) 9381 1777 between 10.00am - 5.00pm, Monday to Friday. To be held on Sunday 13th August 2006, 11.00am - 4.00pm at Palladium Room,
Crown Entertainment Complex Adult Show Entry: $35 (unlimited tastings) and children under 15 free.
Peter Watson
Peter Watson is a name well known for his range of top quality spices, spice blends and many other kitchen essentials. Well Peter has a new showroom
in South Melbourne to showcase his ever growing range, including his recently arrived specialist French liqueurs. To celebrate his new home there's
a cognac and armagnac tasting hosted by importers Gabriel Chaise and Valerie Blayac on Saturday 12th August between 11am and 1 pm. Bookings are essential
so call 03 9699 2566 to book your place. Peter Watson, 6 Union Street, South Melbourne. Runs between Coventry & Dorcas (enter from Dorcas).
Barossa Young Turks
Andrew Wood from Divine has another set of tastings of happening this month with a focus on the Young Turks of the Barossa Valley.
These are the next generation of winemakers who Andrew sees as pushing the boundaries in this renowned wine region. Names such as O'Callaghan,
Lehmann, Kalleske, Lindner, to name a few. Their labels are not household names (just yet) and are difficult to track down.
You won't find many of them at your high street wine shop. The tasting will offer a rare opportunity to taste these wines, without a long drive to South Australia.
The tasting will be seated, structured and led by Andrew Wood from Divine and a number of the Barossa Turks. Thirty-two wines, both red and white,
will be tasted, many of which will be available for purchase on the night. The tastings are open to anyone, but prepaid bookings are essential as
numbers are strictly limited. To book phone 03) 5433 5317 or go to .
Cost $40 (including GST). Sydney Wednesday 23 August, Brisbane Thursday 31 August, Canberra Tuesday 5 September and Melbourne Wednesday 6 September.
Top Melbourne Food Stores
We love a good bakery and Melbourne is very well served in this area. We have shops specialising in French, Italian, Greek, Czechoslovakian and even
Argentinean baking. There are places dedicated to one particular style of product, such as cupcakes, bagels or decorated confections.
Coeliacs and those with other dietary needs are also catered for. The city's band of sourdough specialists is ever-expanding too, places where shoppers
can source loaves fresh from the oven with rich, nutty flavours and chewy crusts.
Babka Bakery Cafe
The popularity of this much-loved favourite of the Fitzroy food scene is testified by queues at lunchtime and weekends. We've long been fans of the
crusty multigrain loaf, displayed with the swag of other breads on offer on trolleys, ready for selection. If it's a sweet treat you're looking for,
Babka's famous currant and orange shoo-fly buns will hit the mark. Other sweet fare includes cheesecake, caramelised pear and custard flan and
moreish honey pecan tart.
358 Brunswick Street Fitzroy, 9416 0091 open Tues-Sun 7 am-7 pm.
Baker D. Chirico
From the theatre of the glass-walled bakery to the mouth-watering choice of products, Baker D. Chirico wins hands down. Pick up a loaf of the chewy,
full-flavoured casalinga bianco and you'll soon get the idea. Sweet items are equally noteworthy, whether it's a chocolate croissant,
raspberry Danish, almond-studded shortbread, fruit garibaldi, fruit coconut muffin or chocolate hazelnut nougat. Lunchtime options include sourdough
rolls with prosciutto, provolone, tapenade, tomato and rocket. All Melbournians interested in top sourdough breads should make a beeline for
Baker D. Chirico.
Shop 3-4, 149 Fitzroy Street St Kilda 9534 3777 Tues-Sun 7 am-5 pm.
Brioche
Brioche has created a niche for itself in Prahran, serving up a wide assortment of breads and pastries to patrons in its contemporary designed store.
As the bakery's name suggests, brioche dough is used extensively - give the chocolate brioche a go and you'll soon see why. The bacon epi is really
interesting, as are the tarts in vanilla, apricot and other fruit flavours. The sourdough breads are not to be missed either, especially the
sourdough sticks, nor is the top-class fruit loaf packed with dried apricots, currants and orange. When Christmastime comes around, give the stollen
a try.
208 Commercial Road Prahran 9525 1966 Mon-Sat 8 am-5.30 pm; Sun 8.30 am-3.30 pm.
Brunetti Cakes
Strolling into Brunetti is like entering a stylish cafe in the heart of Rome. This bustling store offers an amazing selection of sweet and savoury
foods, so many it's hard to know what to choose first. The custard-filled crostoli are an all-time favourite, along with the cinnamon and sugar
beignets. The large cafe serves snacks like panini, focaccia and pizza by the slice, while the espresso machine rarely gets a break. Don't think
about leaving without a cup of the famous gelati - you won't be disappointed.
194-204 Faraday Street Carlton, 9347 2801 Sun-Fri 7 am-11 pm; Sat 7 am-midnight.
Also at: City Square, 214 Flinders Lane, City, 9663 6085.
Dench Bakers
This small sourdough bakery in Fitzroy North pumps out outstanding breads and pastries, while also operating a buzzy cafe. The house stone loaf is
a stunner: white and wholemeal flours transformed into a gutsy crusty loaf. We're also particularly smitten with the olive bread and grain loaf. The
hummingbird cake, frangipani tarts and bomboloni (doughnuts) are as memorable as the Genovese coffee. Those with a sweet tooth should also nab a
brownie, daubed with a hint of chocolate icing and topped with chopped walnuts. The quince and ricotta slice is an absolute beauty, too.
109 Scotchmer Street Fitzroy North Daily 7 am-6 pm.
Firebrand Sourdough Bakery
All the sourdough breads made here are hand-shaped and baked in an ancient wood-fired oven behind a simple shopfront.
It's the attention to doing things properly which gives Firebrand bread the flavour and crust we have all come to enjoy and expect.
The casalinga is the main player here and appears from the oven around lunchtime. The small rye loaves, olive bread and fruity barnbrack are
recommended, as are the sugar-free muffins, pizza by the slice and small triangular farls (rolls), which come in treacle, wholemeal or soda
varieties.
69 Glen Eira Road Ripponlea 9523 0061 Mon-Thurs noon-6 pm; Fri noon-6.30 pm; Sat 9 am-1 pm.
Fleischer Continental Cakes
Melbourne has been well served by Fleischer's for many decades. We first enjoyed their cakes when they were in Chapel Street; now they're in a modern
space on Malvern Road. Traditional Viennese cakes and biscuits are the mainstay here, with options such as plum torte, cherry tarts, glazed apple
flans, fruit cake by the slice, jam swirls and sachertorte with its gorgeously shiny chocolate icing. Other sweet options include mini lemon curd
tarts, Berliners (doughnuts) and the ever-popular chocolate eclairs. If it's a savoury item you need, check out the flaky pastry-wrapped sausage
rolls.
96 Glenferrie Road Malvern 9509 3699 Mon 9 am-5.30 pm; Tues-Fri 8 am-5.30 pm; Sat 8 am-4.30 pm.
Hausfrau
Hausfrau is a charming addition to the local bakery scene. They've taken classic German baking as their theme, and decorated the store with aprons
and baking accessories. There are lots of good things to choose from, including black forest cupcakes, mini fruit tarts, spiced apple scrolls,
passionfruit or lemon slice, and bee sting cake. When it comes to essentials, pick up bags of cute biscuits, freshly baked bread and rolls, plus
Genovese coffee. For something savoury, try the potato pizza by the slice.
32A Ballarat Street Yarraville 9687 8364 Mon-Fri 9.30 am-7 pm; Sat 8.30 am-7 pm; Sat 8.30 am-6 pm.
Le Croissant
Just one glance at the array of classic French pastries and you'll think there's some top-notch baking going on at Le Croissant.
Just one taste will confirm that you were right. Gorgeous coffee eclairs and choux puffs fill the display counters here, alongside stunning macaroons and individual berry and lemon tarts. Another good choice are the rich yet light ham quiches. Add excellent service and attractive bags to carry your purchases home in and you have a fantastic bakery. One of Melbourne's unsung food heroes.
1204 Toorak Road Burwood 9809 2263 Wed-Fri 7.30 am-4.30 pm; Sat 7 am-5 pm; Sun 7 am-2 pm.
Let Them Eat Cake
Chris Montebello is without a doubt one of this city's most talented and creative pastry cooks. Enter his contemporary bakery and you'll instantly be swept up by his edible creations. Consider the beauty of a lemon-iced petit four complete with a tiny flower made from icing or the simplicity of a carrot muffin topped with a marzipan carrot. There's also mini lumberjack cakes and exemplary lamingtons, plus myriad other beautiful things to enjoy. The latest season's creations are all demanding to be purchased, especially around festive times such as Christmas and Easter. It's one that's not to be missed.
147-149 Cecil Street South Melbourne 9686 0077 Tues-Fri 7 am-5.30 pm; Sat-Sun 7 am-4 pm.
Silly Yaks Bakery Cafe
Goods baked for those with gluten intolerances in mind remain limited, but one store leading the way is Northcote's Silly Yaks. The spectacular range of options showcases the possibilities which can be achieved, with everything from focaccia, dinner rolls and fruit bread to fruit scrolls, chocolate brownies and a delicious peppermint slice. Cakes are also available in flavours such as banana and citrus. This is also the place to source coeliac-friendly meals, including curries, pastas, soups and pies.
105 High Street Northcote 9482 3999 Mon, Wed-Fri 8.30 am-6 pm; Sat 9 am-6 pm; Sun 9 am-5 pm.
Cheers until next month, Allan and Michele
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Chilli Jam
Message from Brian - I wondered why the Vietnamese soups at Adelaide Central Market always tasted infinitely better and more complex than my own,
no matter what I did. Then one day I noticed the cook stir in a spoonful of dark sticky gunk, which turned out to be this chilli jam (pictured).
But yours is better. It improves any stock or soup, not just Asian.
This classic Thai sauce is a cupboard staple in our house. We use it to add flavour to Asian meatballs and noodles and as a great barbecue marinade.
500 ml (2 cups) vegetable oil
500 g red shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
10 long red chillies, de-seeded and sliced
260 g (1 cup) grated palm sugar
250 ml (1 cup) tamarind water
25 g dried shrimp paste
60 ml (1/4 cup) fish sauce
1 tsp salt
Heat a wok over a high heat.
Add oil, then deep-fry the shallots, garlic and chillies in separate batches.
Drain on absorbent paper. Allow the oil to cool and then strain.
Place the fried ingredients in a food processor and add a third of the cool cooking oil (100 ml).
Process until smooth, adding more oil if needed to obtain a smooth texture.
Place the paste in a heavy-based pan and add the remaining ingredients.
Heat over a low heat until the palm sugar dissolves, then bring to the boil.
Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the jam thickens slightly.
Makes 500 ml (2 cups).
Recipe from Chilli Jam, Choosing and using Asian Ingredients.
(No longer in print.)