Allan Campion & Michele Curtis photo by Lisa Cohen

Campion & Curtis Food and Wine Newsletter - April 2005

Welcome to the April 2005 edition of the Campion and Curtis newsletter. Mid autumn is a terrific time for food and wine lovers with more and more seasonal ingredients appearing each week and grape growers harvesting the fruit for the 2005 wines. In our garden the vines are dying back and losing leaves daily, flowering is virtually complete on our cumquats and our olives are just starting to turn from green to black. To cap it all off we had our first dessert using quinces this week. There's no going back now, autumn has us firmly in its grip.

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Autumn produce
The abundance of terrific ingredients at this time of year is a real joy for those who love to cook, and those who love to eat. We've enjoyed terrific plums from a friends garden, rhubarb has been stewed to serve alongside our breakfast muesli and fresh figs have been tossed with thinly sliced prosciutto, rocket and blue cheese for lunch. Grapes, feijoas, pears and apples have also been making an apperance in the fruit bowl. On the vegetable side the choices are even more varied with top produce including cabbage, leeks, mushrooms and sweet potatoes in abundance alongside excellent potatoes, carrots, onions and peas. Salads are still a feature of our meals at this time of year, usually containing full flavoured ingredients like radicchio, fennel, walnuts, roasted pumpkin and avocado. A few of our favourite recipes which use these April ingredients are featured at the end of this newsletter.

Melbourne Food
We've been intrigued recently with the number of stories in the local press telling us that Melbourne's position as a great food city is over. Journalists and writers have come to this conclusion it seems based on the recently closure of both Reserve and Le Restaurant. They also point to the demise of other dining rooms in recent years including est, est, est and Blake's.

This approach really irritates us as the food culture of a city is not based on how many restaurants it sustains or where you sit and enjoy six or more courses served in a formal way. No, Melbourne is much more than that. Melbourne is a great food city because it is a place where the population like to eat out as much as they love to eat in. It's a city where people will happily invite you to their home to share a meal. A place where you can shop for authentic ingredients from many different cuisines. Middle Eastern, African, Spanish, Italian, Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai, Indian, French, Japanese and Greek ingredients (just to name a few) are on offer to all. It's a city which is able to sustain a fantastic CBD produce market (Queen Victoria) along with a host of inner suburban markets (South Melbourne and Prahran to name just two) plus Farmer's Markets which draw terrific crowds of food lovers and cooks across the city and further afield in rural Victoria.

What is true is restaurant goers in Melbourne are expecting a less formal style of service and cheaper prices to go with it. The 'big night out' is reserved for birthdays with 0's in them and wedding anniversaries. While we don't have the flashy dining rooms that Sydney has gained over the past few years, we do have some terrific cooks who produce some amazing food and often at prices that you would be hard pressed to match anywhere in the world. Our minds turn to dining rooms such as Pearl, MoMo, MoVida, Donovan's, Circa, Botanical, Flower Drum, Ezard at Adelphi, Jacques Reymond, Vue de Monde, Stefano's and Simone's just to name a few.

No, Melbourne is not in a culinary decline, it's simply doing what any city does, it's moving with the times. It adapts and changes to fit with the local needs and expectations of the people who live there. Perhaps our media outlets and local food writers should have a really good look at what we do have, rather than trying to sell a few more newspapers with doom and gloom headlines.

Australian Farmers' Market Conference
The second national Australian Farmers' Market Conference is set for 27th - 29th August in Albury Wodonga on the NSW - Victorian border. If you're involved in an established market or looking to set up a new market this is an event you should not miss. The weekend will feature international speakers, Australian market practitioners, and food producers. Discover how to make your market a business successes, how farmers' markets contribute to sustainable agricultural practices, economic development and community health. Hands-on workshops will also be a feature. For more information and early registration contact Destination Albury Wodonga on 1300 796 222 or the Australian Farmers' Markets Association on 02 9360 9380. Farmer's Market Website

Australian Regional Food Guide
Sally and Gordon Hammond have produced another version of their Australian Regional Food Guide. What they've created is an amazing look at the food on offer outside our capital cities. They've tracked down the best growers, food stores, dairies, cafes, restaurants and cooking classes on offer on a state by state and region by region basis. Also included are the best markets and food events available. This is an invaluable guide for travellers who love nothing more than visiting quality stores, producers and dining rooms as they travel in regional Australia. To produce a book of this nature in a country this size is a real credit to them both. RRP $29.95 New Holland Publishers. Visit the Australian Regional Food Guide website.

Tasting Australia
Details are starting to emerge about the calendar of events for Tasting Australia to be held in Adelaide in October. One part is a major symposium on the future of food in Australia to be called the Adelaide Food Summit. The two-day event would focus on the principal issues of the future of our food supply: agriculture, horticulture and aquaculture, fishing, sustainability, water resources, regional foods, branding and marketing, with a focus on South Australia. Other proposed topics include a history of food in Australia and a look at current projects in agriculture, fisheries, aquaculture, land and water plus food in the future and where we're heading.

Tasting Australia will also feature a two-day Hyatt Culinary Studios event with demonstrations from some of the world's leading chefs. Visitors will have a chance to learn about – and taste - the best in olives and olive oils, cheeses, breads, mushrooms, oysters, herbs and spices, seafood, meats, wines and cocktails. Other public activities including the LifeStyle Channel Chefs’ Showcase presented by Australian Gourmet Traveller, the James Squire Food, Beer and Wine Writers’ Festival, WineDown 05 and a number of celebrity lunches and dinners in Adelaide and South Australian regions. Big name guests include Antonio Carluccio, Rick Stein, Jill Norman, Cheong Liew, Tim Pak Poy, Geoff Lindsay, Greg Malouf, Peter Evans, Lyndey Milan, Gabriel Gate, Peter Howard, Darren Simpson, Kate Lamont, Jeremy Strode, Alain Fabregue, Iain Hewitson, Shannon Bennett, Serge Dansereau and Stephanie Alexander. Full details are at the Tasting Australia website.

Dan Lepard
Dan Lepard Renowned baker Dan Lepard recently visited Melbourne to host a series of cooking classes, sign copies of his book The Hand Made Loaf and catch up with local bakers. Dan is at the forefront of a baking revival in the UK through his consulting work and hands-on cooking classes and masterclasses. He also has a website which is a great resource for anyone interested in good bread. He has been described as 'The bread supremo' by Fay Machler writing in The Evening Standard and 'A passionate baker, dessert maker and talented pastry chef.' by Nick Lander in The Financial Times. Dan has been kind enough to take the time to write about his visit to Melbourne and provide a few thoughts on where the bread scene in Melbourne. We think it makes great reading as he is perfectly qualified to look at this subject on an international level. Read Dan's viewpoint on Victorian Bakers here. Visit Dan Lepard online.

Recent tastes
Valrhona single estate chocolates are without a doubt some of the worlds best and we always include a selection of them in the chocolate classes we host for the CAE. Every now and then you taste one that is even better than ever. That's the case with the Valrhona Ampamakia 2004. The cocoa beans are sourced from the Millot plantation on the island of Madagascar and is an absolute knockout. It has a full dark fruit aroma with hints of liquorice and rum, almost like a sensational fruity Christmas pudding. Around $9.00 for a 75g bar.

Annie Smithers is a well known name around the Daylesford area of Victoria due to her fantastic cooking at places such as Lavandula and The Stables Pizzeria. In recent times she has created a range of jam, chutneys, relishes, preserves and salt rubs under her own Annie Smither's Preserves label. If you get a chance to try her range, go for it as they are excellent. She follows the seasons and we loved her apricot jam in January, now we've moved onto her fig jam and adore it on toast. Available at farmers markets in the Daylesford area and at our own Ludo The Good Food Store. Around $9.00 per jar.

Great Barossa shiraz is often purple in the glass, fresh and peppery on the nose and rich on the palate. You'll find all this and more in a bottle of Mountadam Barossa Shiraz 2002. A great example of an iconic Australian wine. In the $16.00-$18.00 price bracket.

We've moved from the fresh, light wines of summer to richer whites in recent weeks. A real favourite has been the Coffele soave classico which is rich, nutty and full flavoured. It's a terrific food wine with prosciutto wrapped figs or a rich seafood pasta. A number of bottles were enjoyed with friends over the Easter weekend. Priced in the low $20.00 range.

Cooking classes and food tours
Tony Tan cooking school. Tony Tan offers classes this month focusing on Thai food.
Samantha Gowing. Samantha Gowing Classes on for May and June 2005 at The Green Grocer in Melbourne.
Convivial Times Bookings now open for Chocolate appreciation on April 12th, also a regional tour to Orange from April 17th - 20th.
Essential Ingredient. Essential Ingredient in Melbourne have just released a program of cooking classes that kicks off in May.
Queen Victoria Market Cooking School Lots of classes for teens and younger children over the school holidays.
Cooking Co-ordinates, Canberra - The Art of Thai Cooking with Tip Muangsaen on Saturday 30 April.
Sydney's Seafood School Tapas, chilli crab, bisque, chowder and Thai cooking classes are all on offer this month.
Simon Johnson Talk+Eat+Drink Holly Davis, John Susman and Damien Pignolet are all appearing at the SJ kitchen through April.
Gourmet Safaris A food tour of Sydney's inner west is available along with a pizza making day.

Click here to visit the Campion and Curtis website and find out about up-coming cooking classes and food tours. If you have a fantastic event coming up let us know via email - wfood@vicnet.net.au

Cheers until next month, Allan and Michele

Salad of spinach, radicchio, fennel and walnuts
This is the type of salad that needs no accompaniment; it's simply perfect in its own right. We would serve a salad like this as its own course, after mains but before cheese, on a big dinner party night.

1 fennel bulb
100 g (1 cup) walnuts, toasted
100 g baby spinach leaves, washed
100 g rocket leaves, washed
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Remove tough outer skin layer of fennel.
Cut in half, remove core and slice fennel thinly.
Coarsely chop walnuts and toss with fennel and salad leaves.
Place vinegar, salt, pepper and oil in a small jar and shake to combine.
Add just enough dressing to coat salad and toss to combine.
Food with Friends
Serves 6

Pomegranate beef with lentil, grape and parsley salad
We love the contrast of spicy beef with sweet juicy grapes you get in this salad. If grapes aren't in season, try olives or even fresh pomegranate seeds in their place.

2 tbsp pomegranate syrup
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp sumac
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground cumin
Pinch of ground allspice
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 x 250 g porterhouse steaks
100 g small green lentils
200 g sultana grapes, halved
½ red onion, thinly sliced
½ bunch flat leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 garlic clove, crushed
60 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil

Mix pomegranate, oil, lemon juice, spices, garlic, salt and pepper together.
Rub over beef, refrigerate, and marinate for 4 hours.
Place lentils in saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until lentils are tender, approx 20-30 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Prepare salad by mixing grapes, onion, parsley and lentils together.
Make dressing by mixing lemon juice, garlic and oil together.
Season dressing with salt and pepper.
Drain excess marinade off beef. Cook for 3-4 minutes on each side on a hot barbecue grill or in a heavy based frypan over a medium-high heat.
Allow to rest for 5-10 minutes.
Cut warm beef into slices, add to salad. Add enough dressing to coat, toss to combine.
Serve in a large bowl so guests can help themselves or divide between 6 plates.
Serves 6

Wine Match - Sparkling red

Recipes from Food with Friends - recipes and menus for easy entertaining
Published by Hardie Grant Books. RRP $39.95.

Find out more here.